Shigoudong 新昌石狗洞 Mostly Sport climbing40 routes in crag
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Lots of potential for further development, main crag gets midday sun. Rock gets dirty after rainfall. Take a brush.
Apparently all squared with local government
From Xinchang : Walk downhill from parking at the sharp bend past the tombs, don't leave valuables in car. Or drive another 400m and enjoy flat walk in/out.
From Dingcun : walk south following the river for half an hour, on flat terrain.
Where to stay
Maybe stay in Xinchang and hire local driver, about 70rmb each way.
Another option is to stay in the village of Dingcun (丁村) where you can find cheap countryside style hostel.
Well bolted with couple trad lines
See the rocklizard thread from 2011 http://www.rock-lizard.org/bbs/thread-5618-1-1.html
New sectors developed in 2016 https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/h46YfC1xjsZM64B2C3amJQ
Check out what is happening in Shigoudong 新昌石狗洞.