A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong / Stone Dog Cave
51 in Crag
- 1.1. 大岩壁 Big Wall 10 in Cliff
- 1.2. 传统攀 Trad 6 in Cliff
- 1.3. 半山腰 Hillside 3 in Cliff
- 1.4. 长坂坡区 4 in Cliff
- 1.5. 主岩壁 Main Cliff 15 in Cliff
- 1.6. 大屋檐 Big Roof 8 in Cliff
- 1.7. 新岩壁 1 in Cliff
- 1.8. 小屋檐 Small Roof 4 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. 新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong 51 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.420916, 120.872043
- 2011 路书 - 提取码: 371b
- New sectors developed in 2016 寻岩路书
- 小黑的介绍
小路已在OSM上更新。Approaching trails have been updated on OSM.
From Xinchang : Walk downhill from parking at the sharp bend past the tombs, don't leave valuables in car. Or drive another 400m and enjoy flat walk in/out.
新昌石狗洞 Shigoudong - trail.png
From Dingcun : walk south following the river for half an hour, on flat terrain. 从丁村朝南走，沿河顺流而上，平路走约半小时。
- 丁村潜溪一号农家： 15988259225
- 新昌县城锦江之星鼓山路店
summary
Uniquely quiet setting in hidden valley. Main crag plus several subsidiary areas development potential.
description
Lots of potential for further development, main crag gets midday sun. Rock gets dirty after rainfall. Take a brush.
access issues
Apparently all squared with local government
approach
where to stay
Maybe stay in Xinchang and hire local driver, about 70rmb each way.
Another option is to stay in the village of Dingcun (丁村) where you can find cheap countryside style hostel.
ethic
Well bolted with couple trad lines
history
Developed in 2011, then 2016.
 |
1.1. 大岩壁 Big Wall 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.421980, 120.871796
description
Powerful vertical and overhanging climb
history
Developed in Oct 2016
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
风中摇曳 Blowing in the wind / 23
Set: 汤老大, 2016 | 5.12a | 19m, 9 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ 走钢索的人 Man on wire / 22
FA: 朱德, 2016 Set: 汤老大, 2016 | 5.11d | 19m, 10 | |||||
| 3 |
秋天的童话 Autumn Tale / 21
Set: 阿成, 2016 | 5.13b/c | 23m, 13 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ 吓坏了 Freak out / 20
FA: 古古, 2016 Set: 古古, 2016 | 5.10d | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Hallowmas / 万圣节 / 19
Last few bolts are a not well aligned with the natural line of the climb. Set: 赵四, 2016 | 5.11b | 18m, 7 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ 盘丝洞 The Cave of Silken Web / 18
Set: 苏峰, 2016 | 5.11c | 16m, 8 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ 泓渊 Deep pool / 17
Set: 小泓, 2016 | 5.12b | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 8 |
★★★ 紧箍咒 Gold Hoop Incantation / 16
Set: 王二, 2016 | 5.13b | 22m, 11 | |||||
| 9 |
★ 结局在风中飘扬 The ending is waving in the wind / 15
Set: 邱江, 2016 | 5.13a | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ 矮马 Pony / 14
Set: 苏峰, 2016 | 5.10d | 15m, 7 | |||||
1.2. 传统攀 Trad 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 29.422209, 120.872596
     |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
石狗洞14
Tree Belay 顶部有可靠的树木做锚点 FA: ddv, 2010 | 5.10 | 29m | |||||
| 2 |
15
顶部有可靠的树木做锚点 Tree Belay FA: ddv, 2010 | 5.11 | 29m | |||||
| 3 |
16
1st Pitch: 15m, 5.9; 中间要横切10米左右 2nd Pitch: 25m, 5.10 顶部有可靠的树木做锚点 60单绳无法直接降到地 1st Pitch: 15m, 5.9; middle to cross about 10 meters 2nd Pitch: 25m, 5.10 reliable top anchor trees, 60m single rope can not directly rap to ground FA: ddv, 2010 | 5.10 | 40m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
双飞
大岩壁岩场最左侧裂缝，起步3米无法设置保护点，顶部有可靠树木做下降锚点 FA: ddv, Jan 2017 | 5.10 | 35m | |||||
| 5 |
平步青云
大岩壁岩场右侧，大屋檐岩壁 FA: ddv, Jan 2018 | A2 | 35m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 6 |
斜杠中年
半山腰岩场，往左侧小路走5分钟右侧岩壁，顶部有可靠树木下降 FA: ddv, Jan 2019 | 5.10 | 35m | |||||
1.3. 半山腰 Hillside 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.422227, 120.872409
history
Developed in Oct 2016
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ 细水长流 Running Water in the Long Rill
Set: 苏峰, 2016 | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
小糖人 Sugar man
Set: 邱江, 2016 | 5.12a | 22m, 8 | |||||
| 3 |
转角遇到拐角 Corner meets the corner
Set: 赵四, 2016 | 18m, 7 | ||||||
1.4. 长坂坡区 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 29.420863, 120.872560
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
蔓舞
Set: 宁静, 23 Mar 2020 FFA: 宁静, 25 Apr 2020 | 5.12c | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ 抗病毒
Set: 宁静, 22 Mar 2020 | 5.11c/d | 18m | |||||
| 3 |
元旦 New Years Day
与'长坂坡'共顶 FA: F1, 2011 Set: F1, 2011 | 5.10c | 18m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ 长坂坡 Chang Ban Po
Set: F1, 2011 FA: 小彭, 2011 | 5.10d | 18m, 7 | |||||
1.5. 主岩壁 Main Cliff 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.420730, 120.871675
history
developed in 2010 - 2011
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
达摩 Bohdidharma / 10
厕所后面右边 Set: 2010 | 5.10d | 27m, 10 | |||||
| 2 |
CC公主 Princess / 11
Set: 2010 | 5.11a | 23m, 8 | |||||
| 3 |
★ 约定 Promise / 1
在第 7个挂片处多打了一 个挂片，无梅龙锁用作分段攀爬 Set: 2010 FA: 2010 | 5.9 | 28m, 11 | |||||
| 4 |
★ 秋千 Swing / 2
Set: 2010 | 5.10d | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 5 |
★ 完美相伴 Perfect Companions / 3
Bolts: 10,5,6 Set: 2010 FA: 2010 | 5.11b | 59m, 3, 10 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ 小完美 Small Perfect / 4
Set: 2010 FA: 2010 | 5.10a | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 7 | unknown | 14m | ||||||
| 8 |
停车场 Parking lot / 5
Bolts: 10,13 Set: 2010 | 5.11b | 58m, 2, 13 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ 存在 Exist / 8
Set: 2010 | 5.9 | 28m, 13 | |||||
| 10 |
★ 两个黄鹂 Two Orioles / 9
Set: 2010 | 5.10c | 29m, 12 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 11 |
★★ 纯爷们 Real Man / 6
关键点爆点，从10c升到11a Set: 2010 | 5.11a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ 纯娘们 Pure Woman / 7
High in the grade! Set: 2010 | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||||
| 13 |
★ 多多 / DuoDuo
Maint: 天涯 Set: 天涯 | 5.10b | 14m | |||||
| 14 |
★ 小女孩 / Little Girl
Set: 天涯 | 5.10a | 14m | |||||
| 15 |
★ 小男孩 / Little Boy
Set: 天涯 | 5.9 | 14m | |||||
1.6. 大屋檐 Big Roof 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.420080, 120.871640
description
Home to some of the hardest routes of the crag. Remains dry when it rains.
history
Developed in Oct 2016
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
蓝瘦 Uncomfortable
Set: 斗族, 2016 | 25m, 14 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★★ 承诺 Promise
FA: 阿成 Set: 张勇, 2016 | 5.12c | 21m, 10 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ 花花 Hua Hua
Short climb with the crux just a move or two off the ground. Might be an idea to stick clip the second bolt because the first one won't do much if you slip. middle sequence is really nice and you can get a good rest before the final move to clip the chains. FA: 阿成 Set: 阿成, 2016 | 5.11c | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
哥德巴赫猜想 Goldbach conjecture
Set: 王二, 2016 | 18m, 10 | ||||||
| 5 |
VIP
Set: 阿成, 2016 | 5.13a | 12m, 7 | |||||
| 6 |
石猴 Stone monkey
FA: 阿成 Set: 张勇, 2016 | 5.11d | 12m, 5 | |||||
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 | ★★★ 硬汉 | 5.12a | ||||||
| 8 |
阴阳指 Yin and Yang Finger / 17
Set: 2010 | 5.12b | 10m, 5 | |||||
1.7. 新岩壁 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.419747, 120.871335
description
开发中，在大屋檐的西南方向，小石桥西侧。名字待定
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
轻歌
Set: 宁静, 26 Apr 2020 FFA: 宁静, 26 Apr 2020 | 5.11 | ||||
1.8. 小屋檐 Small Roof 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 29.419659, 120.872516
description
Vertical climb on small edges and lay backs. Remains dry as long as the rain is not too strong.
approach
Follow the river after the Big Roof Area
history
Developed in Oct 2016
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ 大平台 Big ledge
Set: 古古, 2016 | 5.8 | 12m, 5 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ 机械师 Mechanist
Warning Fixed Gear: 顶部挂片螺丝松动 Hard for the grade Set: 邱江, 2016 | 5.9 | 10m, 6 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ 翘臀 Popping out
Share the same top anchors as Lost in East East FA: 汤老大, 2016 Set: 阿成, 2016 | 5.11b | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ 迷东东 Lost in East East
Share the same top anchors as Popping out - 翘臀 FA: 南门, 2016 Set: 王二, 2016 | 5.10b | 10m, 5 | |||||
