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云蒙峡 Yun Meng Gorge 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Aka: Yunmengxia

Climbing in this area is closed.

1
YDS

Summary

Yumeng Gorge runs from east to west and suitable for climbing between April to October.

Description

Yunmeng Gorge lies to the west of Miyun Reservoir, a popular hiking spot. It has also home to some execellent rock and ice climbing. Due to accessibility issues, not many routes have been developed in the gorge, although there are a number of granite walls in excess of 100 meter in height in the Longanggou area. Starting in 2011, teams led by Xiao He have explored the area numerous times and sucessfully opened some routes. M4 Tower is one of a typical granite towers in the White River area.

Access issues inherited from 白河 Baihe

Since 2016 access to Baihe river is forbidden, in order to protect Miyun reservoir. Since then, some crags are closed, other are still open and even developping with more routes.

政府为保护水源,自2019年3月起关闭河道两侧的岩场,包括老怪和部分需要过河的结组路线。 精灵谷鸽壁秘密花园春天里四合堂还开放。

Approach

You can enter the Yumeng Mountain National Forest from both the Miyun and Huairou side. The hike from Shuipuzi village in Miyun to Dujiahe village takes approximately two hours. The walk from Longtangou to M4 tower is roughly on hour.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.9 30m
2 5.10b 30m
3 5.10b 40m

Use trees an natural pillars as belay anchors. The descent involves five rappels.

FA: 小河 & mh, Jun 2011

Activity

Check out what is happening in 云蒙峡 Yun Meng Gorge.