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猴子岩 Monkey Rock

  • Grade context: US
  • Approach time: 3
  • Ascents: 41

Seasonality

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Summary

Conglomerate rock. 2 hours west of Chengdu. Food and accomodation extremely convenient. Large open areas. 20 RMB entry fee. Routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.13d. Sport and trad climbing.

Description

The climbing wall is behind the Country Home Inn Qiánjiāzhúyuan 钱家竹苑 at Daping village, in Chinese Dapingcun 大坪村. Dapingcun is on top of Hemingshan. Hemingshan is to the north west of Dayi City 大邑, which lies to the west of Chengdu.10 RMB entry fee into the grounds. The GPS coordinates of the Country Inn are: N30.648980E103.394469, their phone number is: 13458553938.

Developed in cooperation with the local government, the site is also served as a rock climbing training base. There are over 30 bolted sport routes, and room for more on the right part, as well as some cracks which lend themselves to trad and aid climbing. Climbing ranged from 5.5 to 5.13d and above.

Find more information in the following link http://www.8264.com/viewnews-11365-page-7.html

Lots of tour groups coming on weekends to discover climbing. Be prepared for a noisy background while you climb.

路书

Access issues

Take a bus to Dayi 大邑. Buses now leave from Shiyang 石羊客运站 and Chadianzi Station 茶店子. We went to Shiyang 石羊客运站 because we did not find out about the other option before going back. Buses from Shiyang take 2:30 h. Busses from Chadianzi (20RMB) 茶店子 take 1:00 h and is directly connected with the subway. From there you have to take the bus number 12 to Hemingshan 鹤鸣山 which is also the last station, about 3 RMB.

The owner of the land asks a 20RMB entry fee from each climber. This is supposed to go to site maintenance and cleaning.

Approach

Brisk 3min walk from the carpark of Country Home Inn up to the crag.

Where to stay

Accommodation available at Country Home Inn

Ethic

Groups often arrive on busses to climb at his crag. There are bins available on site. Use common crag care and clean up after yourself, respect other climbers, do not chip rock face etc

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Retro bolted. Can take gear.

Retro bolted. Can take gear.

Face型,坡度85+,岩壁下方为能够容纳二十人的授课区) Face climbing, >85° angled wall.

Short slab to vertical climb that will test your feet work.

Share the same set of anchors as Route 5.

裂缝加FACE路线,5.9,起步坡度70+,坡度80+,高度20米,距离顶链三米有台阶,适合初学者

Goes up with the start of route 8, and goes left to get back on route 7 at the third bolt.

Retrobolted

First anchor available 10 meters below the chain. Can be climbed in two pitches. Share the same anchors as Route 14. (裂缝及夹角路线,5.9,起步坡度70+,平台以上坡度85+,高度24米,距离顶链10米有台阶,可分为两段练结组)

Variation of route 15, going to the right of the flake.

80° angle wall. 裂缝路线,难度5.9,坡度80+,高度24米

Open project.

FA: Awei

One of the longest pitch at the crag. Crux at around bolt 4, followed by a long power endurance section to a full rest. And a few tricky moves to the chains.

The overhanging line that goes up to the big tufa. Downgraded to 5.12a

5.12d if you don't use the boulder on the left at the start for your feet. Otherwise 5.12b.

Follows the arete

Open project. No FA yet. Looks like a hard 5.13.

Stop at the first set of anchors. The short extension adds 3 bolts of easy climbing and a dodgy anchor.

Dihedral and a bit of chimney.

Go right on the ledge at the top of route 30.

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