Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 13th Nov 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.8 | ★ 四人定制 Four-person Custom | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹墙14 | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 烈日骄阳 Scorching Sun | 25m | |||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10b | 多恩亲王 - with yeonyeon | ||||||
有一窝小鸟
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5.11b | ★★ 穿过你的黑发的我的手该放哪儿 - with yeonyeon | 10 | |||||
Wed 9th Aug 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10c - 11b ~5.11a | 早午饭后 After Brunch - with yeonyeon | 7 | |||||
soso。
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5.11a | ★★ 彩虹墙14 - with yeonyeon | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ 飞天鼠的阳台 Flying Squirrel's Balcony - with yeonyeon | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
是一条实在的我on不了的11d。不知道动作在难点挂快挂不好处理。动作很好。居然爬了3把,吃饭太累了。谢谢保护员咯。
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Tue 8th Aug 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ 粉红色的回忆 Pink Memory - with yeonyeon | 8 | Average | ||||
整天爬11的日子,起步走左,钟乳下一个小难点,感觉没有难点。名字是好听的。
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 安乐窝 An Le Wo - with yeonyeon | ||||||
舒服的安乐窝
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5.11c | ★★★ 烈日骄阳 Scorching Sun - with yeonyeon | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
没能on可惜了。不难,因为中间休息点实在太大了。是条好玩的长线。
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ 遛小熊 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk - with 叶明 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
后一段只能侧拉,脚点对我来说没有安全感但没得选
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5.10c | ★★ 遛小熊 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk - with yeonyeon | Average | |||||
天天爬10的日子也挺好。
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5.10a | ★ 口是心非 - with 叶明 | ||||||
彩虹墙的第一条线,起步十分困难,左脚的岩壁都是大家蹭来蹭去的黑印子。果然不是我一个人在这里挣扎没有脚点。
对我第二个难点在一个左脚踩点侧身的动作。。但具体我不记得了金鱼的记忆。
下来的时候可以看到隔壁线路的洞洞里有小鸟!
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5.9 | ★★ 安乐窝 An Le Wo - with 叶明 | ★ Good | |||||
还是安乐窝适合我,每个点又大又舒服~!
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11a | ★ 魔都岩者 Magic City Climber - with 阿茹 | ||||||
阿茹的升级线
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5.11c | ★★★ 烈日骄阳 Scorching Sun - with 阿茹 | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
有一把挂爬错了 爬左边了 退不回来了 很遗憾没有on掉这条经典线路 接近直壁了 好线 唯一的缺点就是有点软 可能5.11ab吧
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ 天堂与地狱 Heaven and Hell — 3 attempts - with marvin | ★★★ Classic | |||||
感觉是这几天摸过单步难点最硬的 10d,难点的位置真的虚,马老师挂好线我已经只想顶绳摸摸动作。算是摸出了一个微妙的 beta,成功率比较稳定,在几个挺极限的 Open 小点上侧拉,上脚,调整手点,微 dyno 到左边一个很小的 open 点,再快速出右手抓大点(希望这套动作先锋也能顺利使出来。。。
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5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard - with marvin | ★★ Very Good | |||||
很考验攀爬效率的一条线路,全程微仰角+大点的配置,上墙之后就需要连续果断发力,两条水脊可以侧拉,感觉重心倒的依然不是很好。必须感慨攀岩真是非常个性化的活动,马老师的 beta 和我完全不一样,自己摸最适合自己的动作(俗称自摸?)才是关键。第一次红 10c,成功升级。
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5.10d | ★★ 天堂与地狱 Heaven and Hell - with Black Light | ||||||
还是全程都有80分以上的手点,脚点也很清晰,只是有一个单步难点,扛住小点出手比较远,冲坠至少两个挂,比较吓人。搞了几遍之后也基本上搞定了。我磨叽了很久之后上去了,灯老师在象冢把拇指手皮掀了,pinch能力下降,就没有继续红这个。仰角墙很考验脚法和身体姿态,我好像发现了在仰角墙上出手之前,脚上要做前摇动作,但具体怎么摇,我的身体有一些体会了,但我脑子还很难说的出来,大体是尽量让自己踩在重心的垂线上吧。俯角上很随便的动作,仰角就得需要认真对待了。
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5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard - with Black Light | ||||||
在下面看好了手点,思考能不能on这条,结果到了上面接近于一步一take。后来总结了一下成功的攀爬一般是放松的,有节奏的,发力是间断的,不好的攀爬是一直在发力,直到力竭。全程都有80分以上的手点,只是有的时候好点的位置隐蔽,违反直觉,盘了三四次才盘熟。灯老师靠着钟乳可以休息,但这一招我用着不太好用,可能是我太大只了。灯老师红了这条线,红点饭吃了两顿,炒菜和串,属实是宰得很过分了。
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Wed 15th Feb 2023 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11a | ★ 黑天使 Black Angel | ||||||
5.10c | 假装5.9 Pretend 5.9 | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 紫色传奇 Purple Legend | 11 | |||||
Thu 6th Oct 2022 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10a 5.9 | 真的5.9 - with Dylan | ★ Good | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹墙14 - with Dylan | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.10b 5.10c | ★★ 遛小熊 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk | ||||||
5.10a 5.9 | 真的5.9 | ||||||
5.10a 5.9 | 真的5.9 | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ 粉红色的回忆 Pink Memory | 8 | |||||
5.11d | ★★ 飞天鼠的阳台 Flying Squirrel's Balcony | 20m, 10 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹墙14 | ||||||
5.10c 5.10c - 11b | 早午饭后 After Brunch | 7 | |||||
Wed 5th Oct 2022 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ 天堂与地狱 Heaven and Hell | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 泥鳅 Mud Fish | ||||||
5.11b | ★ 黑天使 Black Angel | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Pokai in Hell | ||||||
5.10d | ★ 魔鬼的胡子 Devil's Beard | ||||||
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ 什锦饭 Jimbalaya | ||||||
5.11a | ★ 新线 | ||||||
5.10c | 假装5.9 Pretend 5.9 | ||||||
5.10b | 多恩亲王 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ 口是心非 | ||||||
5.10a | 口是心非 右延长 Right Extension | ||||||
5.11b | ★ 黑天使 Black Angel | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Pokai in Hell | ||||||
5.10d | ★ 魔鬼的胡子 Devil's Beard | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ 天堂与地狱 Heaven and Hell | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 泥鳅 Mud Fish | ||||||
5.10d | ★ 钟乳石联系区 Tufa Contact Zone | ||||||
5.10c | 假装5.9 Pretend 5.9 | ||||||
5.10b | 多恩亲王 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ 口是心非 | ||||||
5.10a | 口是心非 右延长 Right Extension | ||||||
5.11b | ★ 黑天使 Black Angel | ||||||
5.11b | ★ Pokai in Hell | ||||||
5.10d | ★ 魔鬼的胡子 Devil's Beard | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ 天堂与地狱 Heaven and Hell | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 泥鳅 Mud Fish | ||||||
5.10d | ★ 钟乳石联系区 Tufa Contact Zone | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ 什锦饭 Jimbalaya | ||||||
5.11a | ★ 新线 | ||||||
Thu 30th Sep 2021 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ 无耻的猴子 Cheeky Monkey | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Wed 21st Jul 2021 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.9 | 真的5.9 | ||||||
5.10b | 多恩亲王 | Average | |||||
5.10c | 假装5.9 Pretend 5.9 | Average | |||||
5.10a | 口是心非 右延长 Right Extension | ★ Good | |||||
5.10a | ★ 口是心非 | Average | |||||
Sat 13th Feb 2021 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ 穿过你的黑发的我的手该放哪儿 - with Brendan | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c 5.10c - 11b | 早午饭后 After Brunch - with Brendan | 18m, 7 | Average | ||||
5.10c | 早午饭后 After Brunch - with Angela Fan | 18m, 7 | Average | ||||
This one is a weird one. It’s hard to figure out from the descriptions but it makes sense that the direct up along the crack is the 5.11 way and going left (while reaching around the arete to clip the draws) is the 5.10 way. Regardless direct was not in the cards as the tufa above was dripping wet onto the last two moves.
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5.11b | ★★ 穿过你的黑发的我的手该放哪儿 - with Angela Fan | 22m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great route, love it! It’s not clear which way to go to the chains though (as straight up is kind of blank): left using the tufa or right where there is a very sketchy boulder problem and then reachy traverse. When Angela put up the rope she went left and it seemed to work well. I did the boulder problem and it was very fun but probably a bit desperate on lead.
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Sat 6th Feb 2021 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ 紫色传奇 Purple Legend | 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 7b onsight. While putting up the draws. Good sustained climbing on flat edges and side pulls.
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5.12a | ★★ 下午地狱 Afternoon in Hell | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fell of the first move. Then got back up and flashed to the top. Good crimpy line.
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5.10c | ★★ 遛小熊 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good cruxy route at the grade
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5.10c | ★★ 遛小熊 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk - with Arthur Fernandez | Average | |||||
5.12a | ★★ 下午地狱 Afternoon in Hell - with Arthur Fernandez | 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 20th Jan 2021 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ 安乐窝 An Le Wo - with 噗通 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 遛小熊 Take Xiao Xiong for a Walk — 3 attempts - with 噗通 | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ 油桃致迷 Nectarine Induced Coma — 5 attempts - with 噗通 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Fri 1st Jan 2021 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹和独角兽 Rainbows and Unicorns - with XiaoGuang_晓光 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 31st Dec 2020 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹和独角兽 Rainbows and Unicorns - with 飒飒 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
翻屋檐之前可以坐在钟乳上休息一下
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5.12a | ★★ 下午地狱 Afternoon in Hell | 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
前半段有意思,指力加平衡,后半段比较容易
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5.11a | ★★ 彩虹和独角兽 Rainbows and Unicorns - with 中华 | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.11a | ★ 魔都岩者 Magic City Climber - with 中华 | ★ Good | |||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹和独角兽 Rainbows and Unicorns - with 江婕, 中华 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
终于认真红了一条线,开心。中间难点移到左边之后,需要敢发力,仰角比较好翻。
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Wed 30th Dec 2020 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ 彩虹和独角兽 Rainbows and Unicorns | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.9 | ★★ 安乐窝 An Le Wo | ★ Good | |||||
比.9难撒
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5.10a | ★ 口是心非 - with Allen Huang, MayMay | ★★ Very Good | |||||
两段式的,和小伙伴复习了一下结组。
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Mon 28th Dec 2020 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.9 | 真的5.9 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard | ||||||
5.9 | 真的5.9 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard | ||||||
Sun 27th Dec 2020 - 石鼓 Shigu | |||||||
Rainbow Wall 彩虹墙 | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ 象冢 Elephants' Graveyard | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
很好玩的線~抬頭可以看到很多大象的圖騰樣貌,動作豐富 Nice
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5.10a | ★ 口是心非 | Average | |||||
前半段有點特別~多注意
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5.9 | 真的5.9 | ||||||
磨手皮
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5.10b | 多恩亲王 | ||||||
起步三把快掛比較難
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