Routes in 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

Rebolted more to the left in November 2021, because of broken holds.In April 2024，we think the original route is still climbale,so we rebolted back to the original place,and set a new route on the left . 2021年11月，因为爆点，前半段的挂片往左移了。2024年4月，我们认为原线路仍具有可攀性，所以将挂片重新移回原位置。并在左侧新增了一条短线。

A four move start to this Climb of V5 with a short 5.10b climb to the anchors.

I cleaned quite well but this style of a new route has potential for holds breaking. Belayer beware and make sure to stand off to the side of the climber.

A meter from the top are two hangars. For those wanting to top rope this route use these. For leading and cleaning continue up to the ledge where there is a ring anchor set. Good spot to practice repeling.

A great route to introduce brand new climbers to climbing outdoors. Very easy start to this route to help build up confidence and encourage them to keep on going.

夹角左侧

夹角右侧

Climb both pitches together all the way to the top. Make sure when lowered to stop at the ledge where first pitch anchors are located. Safety yourself, pull the rope, thread the rings and lower to ground from here. OR climb as a proper multi pitch route. Good ledge at first set of anchors to belay from.

Don't climb too far past the last bolt before turning around, looking behind you, up and to the left for an anchor set. You can stop here or keep on climbing to the top, which I recommend doing. The lower anchor set is there for people wanting to top rope the bottom half of this route.

Use whatever it takes to get to the anchors: slab in front, wall behind, and boulders to the left. This route is unlike any other at Lion's Head. A very physical, full body experience.

A 70m rope will let you climb these two pitches as one. Highly recommend this climb for it's unique moves, holds and setting.

This route is very technical and delicate slab climbing at it's finest. Use any holds on the slab, clipping route #22 hangars, but staying clear of the arete on the far right. The arete on the right side is off of this route; it cannot be used at any point. Who'll be the first to bag this hard FA?

希望所有人都可以尝试和体验岩与路的这种生活方式，走自己的路，攀自己的岩，走好路，攀好岩。

Can be an alternative start to the first pitch of White China.

P1: 14 bolts + top

A few meters of fingery bouldery moves lead you to a section of long moves on open holds split in between with proper rest. A final sequence on positive slab is testing your ability to stay focused. More run out than other climbs in Linan.

Do not go way off route to the mini ledge on the far, far right and rest there. You know what I'm talking about.

右侧的'Here Comes Santa' 不是这个线路的一部分。

For the first several bolts of this route stay on the face, do not stem onto the wall behind you.

Easy short chimney climbing.

Bolts: 9,8,6,8,5

• 六神的非官方路书
• Serious old school chimney climbing. The 5th pitch is face climbing and slightly harder than the rest. Rap down from the set of anchors on the left of the relay of the 4th pitch (2 raps of 35m). If you only have one 60m rope, you can abseil from the anchors of White China, across the platform.

5.13a according to several people who sent it.

Starts on top of 'Red Beans And Rice'. Updated to 5.14a by recent ascensionist (first ascent?).

Climb these two pitches as a single starting on 'Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer' to a good rest. Prepare yourself for steep climbing and big moves on varied holds to the next anchor 15m up.

Climb these three pitches as a single starting on 'Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer' to a good rest. Prepare yourself for steep climbing and big moves on varied holds. Climb through the next anchor, 15m up which is the top of Phoenix Pursuit, and keep going till you top out onto the big ledge at Highlands. Congratulations! You've now climbed the hardest route at Lion's Head and one of the most difficult lines in all of China.

Crack climbing

First half of the route is a very technical slab climb with a powerful slightly overhung second half. Beautiful climb if you are delicate on your feet.

从平台沿着路绳横移，在 '飞虎队' 的右边， '火力全开' 的左边。起点有保护站。

关于首攀临安最难线路“狮子王”

Starts from the top of 'Medicinal', left branch.

Access the belay ledge (with a two-ring anchor for the belayer to use) for Airwalker in one of three ways;

~ A slabby traverse to the right of Mika's Ledge, at the terminus of 'Dave's Traverse'

~ A few meters above the anchor for 'Medicinal'

~ Traverse 1 meter left from halfway up the Midlands route 'The Air Up There'

Airwalker veers to the right; the 5th bolt is where 'Airwalker' and 'Full Power' diverge.

需要70m绳子！

需要70m的绳子！

A must do on the Midlands

35 meters long traverse on the edge on top of the Midlands. Marks the bottom of the Highlands.