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Velká Veleň Guide

  • Grade context: SX
  • Aka: Groß Wöhlen

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Terenc

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Velká Veleň 22 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.744943, 14.258232

access issues

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

inherited from Czechia

ethic

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

inherited from Czechia

1.1. Malá Veleňská věž 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Zámecké schody pravé / Schlosstreppe rechts {UIAA} 1 Trad
2 Zámecké schody středem / Schlosstreppe Mitte {UIAA} 1 Trad
3 Zámecké schody levé / Schlosstreppe links {UIAA} 1 Trad
4 The Fly {UIAA} 4 Trad
5 Action directe {UIAA} 4 Trad
6 Chilam Balam {UIAA} 6 Trad
7 Flatmountain {UIAA} 4 Trad
8 Orujo {UIAA} 5 Trad
9 Open Air {UIAA} 4 Trad
10 La Rambla {UIAA} 5 Trad
11 Tysiąc Kotletów / Tausend Kottelets {UIAA} 3 Trad
12 Akira {UIAA} 5 Trad
13 Realization {UIAA} 5 Trad
14 Intermezzo {UIAA} 3 Trad

1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.743330, 14.255530

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stará cesta / Alter Weg {UIAA} 1 Trad
2 V pantoflích / In Pantoffeln

FA: Jíří Chára, 2007

{UIAA} 2 Trad
3 Z boku / Von der Seite

FA: Jíří Chára, 2007

{UIAA} 3 Trad
4 Došková / Dachziegelweg

FA: Vladislav Nehasil und Daniel Hölzl, 2011

{UIAA} 5- Mixed trad 1
5 Kout velkých kamarádů / Verschneidung der großen Kameraden

brüchig

FA: Vladislav Nehasil und Daniel Hölzl, 2011

{UIAA} 6 Trad
6 Údolní cesta / Talweg

FA: Jíří Chára und Vladislav Nehasil, 2007

{UIAA} 2 Trad
7 Jablečný ráj / Apfelparadies

FA: Vladislav Nehasil und Daniel Hölzl, 2011

{UIAA} 6 Trad
8 Klidný muž / Friedlicher Mann

FA: Vladislav Nehasil und Daniel Hölzl, 2011

{UIAA} 6+ Mixed trad 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
1 Zámecké schody levé Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Zámecké schody pravé Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Zámecké schody středem Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Stará cesta Trad 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
2 V pantoflích Trad 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
Údolní cesta Trad 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
3 Intermezzo Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Tysiąc Kotletów Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Z boku Trad 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
4 Action directe Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Flatmountain Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Open Air Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
The Fly Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
5- Došková Mixed trad 1 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
5 Akira Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
La Rambla Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Orujo Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Realization Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
6 Chilam Balam Trad 1.1. Malá Veleňská věž
Jablečný ráj Trad 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
Kout velkých kamarádů Trad 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
6+ Klidný muž Mixed trad 1 1.2. Věž u Veleňské Ušby
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