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Staré skály

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Approach time: 5
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 27

Seasonality

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Description

The cliff is hidden in 'Sloup' complex crags. The micro-climate of cave makes pleasant climbing condition during the hot summer days, but there can be often high level of humidity. Many routes are sport climbing oriented and hard boulder problems are typical for them. Lengths of routes are from 10 to 20 meters. There are also many extremely hard boulder problems in the cave (FB 8A, 8B).

Access issues inherited from Sloup

The parking place is in small town Sloup, near to the entrance to Sloupsko-šošůvské caves.

The crags belong to protected landscape area Moravský kras. Climbing is allowed in all season, expect occasionally limited restrictions given by the nesting birds.

Approach

From the parking place around bistro and ticket office directly to the 'Hřebenáč'. Cross shallow creek and continue the 'Staré skály'. Sometimes after heavy rains bottom of many routes could be flooded.

Descent notes

Rappel chains are in all routes.

Ethic inherited from Sloup

Climbing to the peaks of cliffs is strictly forbidden. Creating new routes without approval of Regional climbing commission Jižní Morava is not allowed. Take care because some easy routes are polished and no very well bolted.

History

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Prominent sport area with high concentration of extremely difficult routes, where have been formed history of hardest sport routes in 'Moravský kras'. The one of the best climber in the world Adam Ondra made 9 hardest routes in the area (his hardest route here is 'Vasil Vasil', UIAA 12, FR 9b+).

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: M. Klosner & O. Fiala, 1988

FA: J. Beneš, V. Oipal & T.Dráb, 1975

FA: I. Březina & V. Wolf, 2010

FA: P. Weisser, 1994

FA: P. Weisser, 1994

FFA: T. Pilka, 1995

FA: Z. Konečný & J. Bližňák, 1984

FA: J. Svozil ml., 1995

FA: O. Husička, 2001

FA: J. Svozil ml., 1995

FA: D. Smejkal & P. Musil, 1984

FA: J. Svozil ml., 1995

FA: Z. Konečný, 1986

FA: Z. Konečný, 2002

FA: Adam Ondra, 2003

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: P. Kořan, 1998

FFA: Adam Ondra, 4 Dec 2013

FA: P. Kořan & T. Pilka, 2004

FA: P. Weisser, 1995

FA: T. Pilka, 1995

FA: Adam Ondra, 2006

Start jako 'Hypochondr', rovně nahoru bez díry z 'Překvapení'. Konec v horní rampě. Zakázán chyt cca 20 cm vlevo od díry.

FA: Adam Ondra, 8 Dec 2013

FA: J. Nešpor, 1986

FA: V. Wolf, 2009

FA: Z. Konečný, 2008

FA: P. Weisser

FA: R. Babička, 2000

FA: J. Beneš & P. Hort, 1982

FA: J. Pavloň, 1995

FA: V. Wolf & P. Kubík, 2001

FA: J. Svozil ml., P. Kubík & D. Hošek, 2 Sep 2016

SD, Pod cestou 'Stará plotna' ze sedu oběma rukama z bočáku nahoru po mrdečkách se s kozími skopičinami dostaneme do velké lišty z cesty 'Chameleon' a do madla.

FA: Adam Ondra, 28 Nov 2013

FA: Z. Konečný, 1986

FA: J. Svozil ml.

FFA: T. Pilka, 1995

FA: J. Svozil ml.

FFA: T. Pilka, 1995

FA: J. Jelínek & J. Novák, 1975

FFA: T. Pilka, 1991

FFA: T. Pilka, 1995

FA: Adam Ondra, 2007

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: Z. Konečný, 2002

FA: V. Wolf, 2008

FA: Z. Konečný, 2008

FA: V. Gregor, 1969

FFA: Z. Konečný, 1987

FA: Adam Ondra, 2004

FA: Adam Ondra, 2006

FA: Adam Ondra, 2006

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: Z. Havlík & P. Hort, 1978

FA: P. Musil & D. Smejkal, 1983

One of the hardest boulder in Czech Republic.

FA: Martin Stráník, Aug 2019

Start jako 'Brutus', dolez cestou 'Ghost Rider'. Celkem 25 těžkých kroků. Do cesty 'Ghost Rider' se přidá 8A+.

It links “Brutus”, an 8A+ (Brutus exits left into relatively easy terrain) into the start of Ghost Rider, providing a lower start into Ghost Rider. The boulder problem is long, it has 25 hard moves and according to Adam Ondra could also be graded as hard 9b sport route.

Adam Ondra #68: Brutal Rider 8C+ / Czechia's Hardest Boulderproblem

FA: Adam Ondra, 25 May

Spojení cest 'Síla je kouzlo' a 'Kouzlo Panoramixe'. Konec v madle, možné dolézt cestou 'Matový sauce', klasa se už nenavýší.

FA: Martin Stráník, 8 Jul 2017

Start ze dvou velkých chytů, nabrat spoďák a nátah do nástupového chytu 'Kouzelný sauce'. Konec až nahoře v cestě 'Mátový sauce'.

FA: Adam Ondra, 9 May 2016

SD, 'Automatix' doprava a 'Idefix'.

FA: Martin Stráník, 12 Jul 2014

Start jako 'Dogma' mírně doleva do madla z cesty 'Idefix'.

FA: Adam Ondra, 24 May

Z 'H1N1' do 'H5N2'.

FA: Martin Stráník, 20 May 2018

Ze sedu ze spáry vlevo od cesty 'Jepičí život' přímo nahoru přes jebky do topu cesty 'Dogmatix'

FA: M. Švec, 11 Aug 2018

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