A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
vilda_hkvdf Dan Bronec Franta Kaván Lukas Lacina Peter Betz
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Široká věž / Breiter Turm 32 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Široká věž 32 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.801120, 14.053890
Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.
access issues
Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:
TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.
Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).
ethic
Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Stará cesta / Alter Weg
FA: Jaroslav Prošek & M.Matras | V | ||||
2 |
Varianta Staré cesty / Variante zum AW
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V FA: Jaroslav Prošek, L.Smrž, Z.Vlk & P.Novák, 1950 | V | ||||
3 |
Údolní cesta / Talweg
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc FA: Rolf Schade und Karel Bělina, 1991 | VIIc | 3 | |||
4 |
★ !Čihulova cesta / Čihulaweg
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa FA: Josef Čihula & M. Machovič, 1961 | VIIa | ||||
5 |
Zlé časy diktátorů / Schlimme Zeiten der Diktatoren
FA: Libor Hroza und Karel Bělina, 1986 | IXa | 3 | |||
6 |
★★ Andělská hrana / Engelskante
FA: Gerhard Tschunko & W.Bruch, 1967 | VIIc | 30m, 2 | |||
7 |
Hadí převis / Schlangenüberhang
FA: Karel Bělina, M.Matras & J.Budín, 1969 | VIIc | 1 | |||
8 |
★ Manhattan
Wand, Überhang FA: Petr Slanina und Jiří Slavík und Jiří Novák, 1991 | IXa | 4 | |||
9 |
Ježíši Kriste ! / Jesus Christus !
Wand FA: Jiří Slavík und Miroslav Vlk & M.Matras jun., 1983 | IXa | 3 | |||
10 |
★★ Originál Modrotisk / Originalblaudruck
Wand FA: Jiří Slavík, Arny & M.Bulín, 1991 | IXc | 6 | |||
11 |
Modrotisk / Blaudruck
FA: Václav Urban und Jiří Slavík, 1991 | IXb | 4 | |||
12 |
Třicítka / Dreißiger
FA: Tomáš Sobotka und Ondřej Beneš und Jiří Novák, 2007 | Xb | 5 | |||
13 |
Pochod svatých / Heiligenmarsch
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc FA: Karel Bělina & Z.Hubka, 1970 | VIIc | 2 | |||
14 |
Severozápadní komín / Nordwestkamin
FA: Antonín Olexa & L.Oujezdský, 1969 | III | ||||
15 |
Luciferka / Luzifer
FA: Petr Slanina und Jiří Slavík und Jiří Novák, 1991 | VIIIc | 2 | |||
16 |
S čerty nejsou žerty / Mit dem Teufel scherzt man nicht
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc FA: Karel Bělina & J.Šabata, 1986 | VIIc | 2 | |||
17 |
Elixír čertův / Teufelstrank
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc FA: Karel Bělina v.u.g., 2004 | VIIc | 2 | |||
18 |
Ďábelský elixír / Teufelselixier
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb FA: Karel Bělina, F.Křivinka & D.Hölzl, 2003 | VIIb | 3 | |||
19 |
Smutná cesta / Trauerweg
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb FA: Karel Bělina & Z.Závišková, 1969 | VIIb | 1 | |||
20 |
Hlavolam / Kopfschmerz
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa FA: Karel Bělina, V.Jarolím, B.Skotnicová, Z.Hubka & A.Olexa, 1970 | VIIa | 1 | |||
21 |
Zapomenutá cesta / Vergessener Weg
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V FA: Karel Bělina & J.Firman, 1969 | V | ||||
22 |
Krátká hrana / Kurze Kante
FA: Karel Bělina & T.Krampl, 1983 | VIIIa | 1 | |||
23 | ★ Přes přílepek / Übers Pfeilerchen | III | ||||
24 |
★ Varianta přes přílepek / Variante zu Übers Pfeilerchen
FA: Jürgen Lösel & P. Saling, 1972 | VI | 20m | |||
25 | Jihovýchodní komín / Südostkamin | II | ||||
26 |
Než se kdo naděje / Ehe sich jemand Hoffnung macht
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb FA: Karel Bělina, L.Oujezdský & Z.Hubka, 1969 | VIIb | 1 | |||
27 |
Varianta Než se kdo naděje / Variante
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb FA: Milan Javorský & J.Budín, 1972 | VIIb | 1 | |||
28 |
★★ Železný muž / Eisenmann
FA: Karel Bělina & J.Drengubák, 1985 | VIIc | 25m, 1 | |||
29 |
★ Faktor X
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb FA: Karel Bělina & M.Javorský, 1969 | VIIb | 1 | |||
30 |
★ Myší varianta Faktoru X / Mäusevariante
FA: Karel Bělina & B.Skotnicová, 1970 | V | 1 | |||
31 |
Náhorní cesta / Schartenweg
SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV FA: Manfred Kühn v.u.g., 1982 | IV | ||||
32 |
★ Přeskok / Sprung
FA: Antonín Olexa, 1969 | 2 | 2m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
II | Jihovýchodní komín | ||||
III | ★ | Přes přílepek | |||
Severozápadní komín | |||||
IV | Náhorní cesta | ||||
V | ★ | Myší varianta Faktoru X | 1 | ||
Stará cesta | |||||
Varianta Staré cesty | |||||
Zapomenutá cesta | |||||
VI | ★ | Varianta přes přílepek | 20m | ||
VIIa | ★ | !Čihulova cesta | |||
Hlavolam | 1 | ||||
VIIb | ★ | Faktor X | 1 | ||
Než se kdo naděje | 1 | ||||
Smutná cesta | 1 | ||||
Varianta Než se kdo naděje | 1 | ||||
Ďábelský elixír | 3 | ||||
VIIc | ★★ | Andělská hrana | 30m, 2 | ||
Elixír čertův | 2 | ||||
Hadí převis | 1 | ||||
Pochod svatých | 2 | ||||
S čerty nejsou žerty | 2 | ||||
Údolní cesta | 3 | ||||
★★ | Železný muž | 25m, 1 | |||
VIIIa | Krátká hrana | 1 | |||
VIIIc | Luciferka | 2 | |||
IXa | Ježíši Kriste ! | 3 | |||
★ | Manhattan | 4 | |||
Zlé časy diktátorů | 3 | ||||
IXb | Modrotisk | 4 | |||
IXc | ★★ | Originál Modrotisk | 6 | ||
Xb | Třicítka | 5 | |||
2 | ★ | Přeskok | 2m |