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Poroto Gringo Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 4

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Description

This steep wall has a wide varety of basalt, from sharp to smooth, jugs and slopers.There are two pitches, but none of the climbs were set together. Due to the difficult grades of the upper climbs, they are here presented as separate climbs. Climbers can connect the lower and upper climbs with a 60m rope and reach the top.

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Access issues inherited from Amora Gedel

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Ken Ford

Diamond in the rough basalt. Light problems and technical moves. Go straight over the crux for the 10c or stray right to make it less strenuous.

FA: James Garrett & Devlin McGuire, 21 Nov 2015

Beginner/intermediate climbing on quality and varied basalt.

FA: James Garrett

Spicy and sharp. This rarely climbed adventure above Tenish Tenish is defined by its creator, Niels T, as ‘a 5.11 climb for 5.12 climbers’. Carry a clean pair of underwear.

FA: Niels T

PG was the first line bolted on this wall in honor of my first baby, a Chile-Gringo mix. Bouldery start on this one. The best option to access Sheba and Austerity Measures.

FA: Nicojah

‘My Brother’ in Amharic, turned out to be Poroto Gringo’s lil sister. Shares same anchor. Lots of lichen.

FA: Nicojah

Hardest line on the wall goes into and around the large roof on the upper part. Get acrobatic for the Queen of Sheba. Niels made this one too.

FA: Niels T

The best climb of its grade at AG. This line starts at the mid-way point and goes to the crag’s highest point along the edge of a long arete. Bolts were donated by a group of Spanish dancers!

FA: David Adams

Bavarian Bernde’s masterpiece. Bouldery start, powerful first crux and a techy, small crimper top. The man had to quit smoking just to redpoint this one.

FA: Bernde Emmerich

Fun climbing goes up the middle and then right side of the middle pillar. Tiptoe out an exposed arete at the top and go for the crux. Name means something like ‘jumping jesus on a pogostick’ in local parlance. Throw a piece of pro in a big horizontal crack for the nerves.

FA: Nicojah

Sustained 5.11 climbing until the crux two-thirds of the way up. Get a long rest before attacking the dark basalt and fingery crux of the blue donkey. You’ll likely scream ‘waraj’ to get off this one.

FA: Darrel Sommerlatt

FA: Nicojah

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