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Anbessa Wall and the Bushy Slabs

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 2

Seasonality

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Description

These two walls feel less connected than they actually are. Anbessa Wall offers long continuous lines, mostly cracks, of which there are still a number yet to be climbed. The Bushy Slabs seem dirty and full of vegetation, but will likely see more route development in the coming year or so. The base of the slabs is dense and bushy, holding back potential.

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Access issues inherited from Amora Gedel

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Nico Parco ()

Routes

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A must-do. Simply incredible line with aesthetic and athletic! This is AG’s most iconic line and wasn’t bolted until the end of 2015. Use 70m rope, but can be done on 60m if belayer stands on the first ledge. Anbessa is lion: hear the roar.

FA: Nico Jah & Elad Omar

The hardest trad line at AG, this steep left-trending crack gets finger thin and then transitions to a vertical crack at the crux. Shares anchor with Anbessa. So far, unrepeated.

FA: Bernde Emmerich

The first crack climbed on this wall, starts in the right crack of Anbessa Wall’s middle crack system and moves to the left side and up. Takes all sizes of gear, nice climbing and an exposed finish. Celebrate the historic battle with the rest of Ethiopia on March 2nd.

FA: Nicojah

The Bushy Slabs. Short climb for beginners: ‘No Problem’. Can be done on bolts or gear.

FA: Nicojah

Same start as Galatoma, stay on the lower, left-trending crack and follow a thin finger crack straight up to the same anchors. Free and feral like its creator.

FA: Bernde Emmerich

Climb up and over to the higher left- trending crack, then up a thin ramp to the first bolt. Another bolt and then the anchors. Galatoma means thank-you in the Oromifa language.

FA: Nicojah

AG’s one-move wonder! Go up some intermediate terrain and throw a couple of bigger moves to get over a bulge. Sail up the rest of the pillar to the anchor. Named after the famous veggie market in Addis for all the plants pulled off the wall.

FA: Nicojah

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