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Giorgis Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 2

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Description

In the beginning, villagers told us some farenjis had already been to AG and written their names on the walls. Turns out they weren’t farenjis but one W/Giorgis, scribbled in 1964 (Ethiopian calendar). The names are now part of AG’s steepest, most-challenging wall where Ethiopia’s real sport climbing test-pieces are found. The wall is a bit shorter on bullet proof basalt, which sometimes resembles limestone. Giorgis Wall has potential for several more climbs.

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Access issues inherited from Amora Gedel

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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Routes

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FA: Elad Omer

FA: Elad Omer

Ethiopia’s hardest sport climb has a long sustained crux with moves that most of us only see in the movies. Says Elad Omer, Addis Ababa resident pro climber: “you must be in Zohan shape” to mess with the Zohan.

FA: Elad Omer

Elad’s first contribution to the wall starts just below the graffiti. Before setting off, try asking yourself if you’d rather climb a Girogis or drink a Giorgis.

FA: Elad Omer

Use your balance to get through the start and pull jugs over the roof and up onto a large flake to the anchor. Classic 5.11 at AG and the easiest climb on Giorgis wall.

FA: Elad Omer & NicoJah

First crux at the top of the dihedral, long reach on small holds, and an unexpected second crux below the chains. The Liger Army team put this satisfying line in under the chant “Liger Army Never Dies!”

FA: Bernde Emmerich, NicoJah & Ollie T.

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