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Rêve

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 28

Seasonality

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Description

Get here early for the sun or stroll up in the afternoon for cooler conditions. Entire trips have been spent here to tick Reve de Papillon!

Access issues inherited from Buoux

Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.

Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.

Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.

Ethic inherited from Buoux

  • No camping
  • No sleeping in car parks
  • No fire
  • Don't leave any trash
  • Brush off your chalk and tick marks

Routes

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Grade Route

Great route following a strong corner feature up to a flake and final roof-let.

An iconic route, almost a rite of passage. 17 intense moves to a good jug. The route starts on a traverse with barely any good feet (most are polished). The rest of the route is easier (old school 6b+) but it's still possible to fall in the slab section under the anchors - use your feet wisely.

One of the first French 8a and essential tick for all aspiring 8a badge wearers!

FFA: Marc Le Menestrel, 1983

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