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Forestiers

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Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

Emprunter le chemin qui sépare le lac au sud du parking d’un petit étang à gauche de la paroi principale et monter à droite sur 50m après le secteur Vipères.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow the steep left corner

Follow line to the left of the roof

1 5b 30m
2 5b 15m

30m to the first station. Three 15m extensions above ranging from 5b, 5c, 4b (L to R).

Delicate crimpy slab start leads to slightly easier climbing on flakes.

Straight, then left across Le petit toit before heading to a corner

1 6a 30m
2 5c 20m

Best route I did at this crag. Can't remember the exact bolt count but I took a dozen draws and used most of them.

1 5a 30m
2 5c 20m

Cool route. Excellent warm up for this wall. 60 m rope will work for p1, but barely.

1 4c 30m
2 5c 20m

Slab climbing

1 4c
2 4b
1 5c 10m
2 6a 20m
3 5a 15m

L2 engagée.

The 6a R of L'Eperon Claret

The 5c R of the 6a R of L'Eperon Claret. Make some interesting slab moves up a short face to an anchor on the big ledge. 5c straight over the bolts, easier if climbed from the right.

Longer et franchir un surplomb oblique entre L2 de l’Eperon Claret et L2 du Sorbier et terminer par un court pas technique en dalle pour rejoindre R2 de l’Eperon Claret.

1 4c 15m
2 5a 20m

Climb slab to the ledge, then crawl into an extended, often awkward corner/chimney system. At the top of the corner are two bolts with tat which can seve as a belay. At the top of the big block on your left you will find yourself looking up a beautiful short corner to finish the line. Alternatively you can climb the arête to your right which is slightly harder. One rap if rope is an 80. Two raps if shorter.

Variant right of Le Sorbier P2.

1 4c
2 6b+

P1 - 10m 4c P2 - 6b+ (can be avoided moving right at 6a)

Furthest climb to the right. Shares the P1 anchor of Le Marteau

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): François Burnier & Dominique Potard

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9782910672294

Climbing in the mountains around Chamonix - surrounded by spectacular nature. A selective guidebook describing 37 separate climbing areas including 4 bouldering areas in Chamonix Valley.

Author(s): Charlie Boscoe & Luke Davies

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781873341780

A selective guidebook for Chamonix describing the very best rock climbs and mountain routes around Chamonix and Mont Blanc. It covers all aspects of climbing in Chamonix, from topping out on Mont Blanc, spectacular peaks, classic long ridges, to intimidating north faces and valley sport climbing.

Author(s): Fabrizio Calebasso & Matteo Pasquetto

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9788885475816

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook to the Italian side of Mont Blanc, covering 66 crags/faces including the Tacul area, the Capucin area, Pavillon, and the Italian side of the Grande Jorasses.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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