Ascents in East face

Revisited this classic route. Weather was nice with little wind. Lot's of fresh snow in starting gully. Good ice conditions in gully itself. Compared to last time there is a major rock "pole" that is wedged across the gully at the last pitch than one have to climb over. Rappel anchors bolted for 60m ropes.

Snowbridge over bergscrund collapsed for Joni. Limited with ice on second pitch. Climbed 3 pitches.

Broke crampon on lead so front piece got detached. (webbing was old and got cut of by trouring boots). Bailed route after 3 pitches.

First Climb in Chamonix

clears fast after bad weather

Alpine grade TD+. Did direct verions on Tour rouge. Hail and thunderstorm from tour rouge. Spin-drift in exit gullies.

Good climb, got lost up high and topped out by moonlight, special

Heavy spindrift this day.

Slept in tent at base of climb prior to climb. Climbed next morning then rappelled down for sleep.

Skied down to start of climb from Midi. Climbed and rappeled and then down valley blance on skis.

Climb with no mishaps. Francis couldn't ski so approach on foot and hiked back up to Midi lift. Invited to sleep indoor by guardian.

Epic. Pitched the route! Then M fell into crevasse in snow storm on top. Bivvy in crevasse at around 4,000 m (had a stove luckily but no sleeping bag). Descent Valle blance on skis day after bivvy.