A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Thomas Müller Andrei Verdeanu Magnesia Mathis Paul Slattery Erwin Biba Hywel Rowlands Campbell Gome Julia M
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Rocher Baron
84 in Crag
- 1.1. Joli coup baron 1 in Area
- 1.2. Face Ouest 23 in Sector
- 1.3. Quand on a que l'amour 12 in Sector
- 1.4. La Sieste au soleil 35 in Sector
- 1.5. Toit des Chèvres Dry-tooling Crag 13 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rocher Baron 84 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.845836, 6.587851
summary
A high, exposed, quick-drying crag.
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
approach
The long winding gravel road from the north is the crux of the approach (The one from south east is forbidden to drive). From the parking (44.846066, 6.591040), the approach is between seconds and minutes.
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
|
1.1. Joli coup baron 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.846055, 6.585881
approach
Park at (44.844729, 6.584971) in the curve and take the scramble/path in northern direction. The route begins at (:GPS:44.846034, 6.584535), where there is a little Sign on the wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Joli coup baron
No pitch is supposed to be longer than 30 m. Easy walking descent. Very well protected, however there seemed to be 1 or 2 single bolt belays? | 5a | 210m, 13 |
1.2. Face Ouest 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.846198, 6.587471
description
Furthest from the parking.
approach
Walk down the road past the roofs of "Quand on a que l'amour" sector, then follow cables right.
descent notes
Rappel/lower-off.
history
Equipped by J. Hecht.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Rien dans les poches, sortie gauche 6a, sortie drohte 6b | 6a | ||||
2 | ★ Colombus | 6a | ||||
3 | ★★ La Caduc | 6a+ | ||||
4 | Bratsch | 6a | ||||
5 | L' aura des Baleins | 6a | ||||
6 | La nu pied | 6a | ||||
7 | ★★★ Noubar | 6b | ||||
8 | ★★ Sirba | 6b+ | ||||
9 | ★★ Joulik | 6c | ||||
10 | ★★ Ivouchki | 6c | ||||
11 | Naminka | 6a+ | ||||
12 | Raflesia | 6a+ | ||||
13 | Bulbizare | 6a+ | ||||
14 | Roucool | 6a+ | ||||
15 | ★★ Rocaillou | 6b | ||||
16 | ★★ Les dudulles | 6a+ | ||||
17 | ★★ La Noire Rode | 6b | ||||
18 | ★ Question d' adherence | 6c | ||||
19 | Retour aux sources | 6a+ | ||||
20 | ★★ Tire bouchon | 6a | ||||
21 | ★★ La dalle mere | 6b | ||||
22 | ★★ Radio rum | 6a+ | ||||
23 | ★★ l' heute de la recre | 6a |
1.3. Quand on a que l'amour 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.845284, 6.589276
description
The left side is characterized by an easy ledgy slab leading to an impressive roof. The right side has only slightly overhanging climbs. Gets out of the sun around 4pm.
approach
From the parking (44.846066, 6.591040), walk a short distance down the closed road, and the cliff is obvious to the right.
descent notes
Lower-off / rappel.
history
Equipped by P. Pellet, J. Hecht, J.J. Roland.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Quand on n'ose que l'amour | 7a | 20m | |||||
2 | ★★★ Chaque heure et chacque jour | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
3 | ★★ Pour qu'éclate de joie | 7c | 20m, 9 | |||||
4 |
★★ Mon amour toi et moi
The right-most of the climbs that go up the steep roof. | 7c | 20m | |||||
5 | ★ Derniere danse | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Au jour du grand voyage | 6c | 20m | |||||
7 | ★★ A s'offrir en partage | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★ Quand on n'a que l'amour | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Je n'ai qu'une seule vie | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ J'en rêve encore
The left facing crack near the right end of this face. | 6b | 20m | |||||
11 | ★★ Mission eureka | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||||
12 | ★ Graine de star | 5c | 20m |
1.4. La Sieste au soleil 35 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.846112, 6.590317
description
A lovely sun-warmed and dried cliff, with many easy routes and a base suitable for children.
approach
Amble across the road from the parking.
descent notes
Lower-off/rappel. (Walk off left from the one long route that tops the ridge.)
history
Equipped: G. Fiaschi, P.J. Doulat, D. Charignon.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
(sans nom 1)
Left-most route on the easy slab at the left end of the crag. | 4a | ||||||
2 | ★ (sans nom 2) | 4a | ||||||
3 | (sans nom 3) | 4a | ||||||
4 | (sans nom 4) | 4a | ||||||
5 |
(sans nom 5)
Right-most of the easy routes on the slab to the left. | 4a | ||||||
6 | ★★ Eau Secours | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
7 | ★★ Pas de bile | 6a | 35m | |||||
8 |
★★ Vive la vie
18 Bolts if done in one long pitch. | 5c | 40m, 12 | |||||
9 | ★★ La sieste au soleil | 5c | ||||||
10 | ★★ Lézard maniac | 5c | 35m | |||||
11 | ★★ Mi-Noel | 5c+ | 30m | |||||
12 | ★★ La charge héroique | 6a | 19m, 7 | |||||
13 | Affirmatif yaka ! | 6c | 18m, 9 | |||||
14 | ★★ la Fureur de vaincre | 6b | 21m | |||||
15 |
★★ La rage de buller / la rage debule
The wide winding crack between orange faces. | 5c | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★ le Toit | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
17 | ★ Titeuf | 6a | ||||||
18 | ★ P'tit frère | 5b | 20m | |||||
19 | ★★ Grand frère | 5c | 20m | |||||
20 | ★★ Reviens leon | 5a | 20m | |||||
21 |
★ Tous au paradis
Shares anchor with "Reviens Léon". | 4c | 20m | |||||
22 |
★★ Poussez Pas
Walk off climber's left, or rappel. | 5a | 50m, 2 | |||||
23 | La grande fissure | 4c | 20m | |||||
24 | La frêne | 5a | 20m | |||||
25 | ★★ Oh fonds | 5b | 20m | |||||
26 | ★★ Ribouldinque | 5c | 20m | |||||
27 | ★★ Les bas fonds | 5c | 20m | |||||
28 | ★★ Croguignole | 5c | 20m | |||||
29 | ★★ Filochard | 6a | 15m | |||||
30 | Plein Sud | 6a | 15m | |||||
31 | ★★ Leve-toi et grimpe | 5b | 15m | |||||
Dalle des Sans-CulottesAround the corner right of the main wall, maybe a dozen meters, is a small wall with a few easy routes. | ||||||||
33 | (voie d'initiation 1) | 3 | ||||||
34 | (voie d'initiation 2) | 3 | ||||||
35 | (voie d'initiation 3) | 3 | ||||||
36 | (voie d'initiation 4) | 3 |
1.5. Toit des Chèvres Dry-tooling Crag 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 44.845846, 6.586943
summary
Dry-tooling crag opened for the Ecrins Ice Climbing 2017 contest.
description
Features climbing on quartzite, which is very aggressive for both front-points and picks. From left to right, the routes follow a difficulty progression from beginners to intermediate and expert.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ 1 | {UIAA} M5 | 15m, 7 | |||
2 | ? | {UIAA} M7 | 20m, 14 | |||
3 | Chèvre Chaud | {UIAA} M6 | 15m, 7 | |||
4 | Tête de Bique | {UIAA} M7 | 28m, 12 | |||
5 | Biquette | {UIAA} M8 | 15m, 6 | |||
6 | Face de Bouc | {UIAA} M7/8 | 15m, 11 | |||
7 | Stylo Bique | {UIAA} M8/9 | 20m, 13 | |||
8 | ? | {UIAA} M8 | 20m, 10 | |||
9 | ★ Crotte de Bique | {UIAA} M10/11 | 20m, 10 | |||
10 | Chavroux | {UIAA} M9 | 15m, 9 | |||
11 | Picodon | {UIAA} M9 | 15m, 9 | |||
12 | Ca Rend Chèvre | {UIAA} M9 | 28m, 2, 15 | |||
13 | Double Chèvre | {UIAA} M10 | 20m, 11 |