A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Valentin Faure Loic Zehani LarsKr Campbell Gome Koji Bay ardahatunoglu Caleb Skirrow Simon Dale Kai Jonas O
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Russan
273 in Crag
-
1.1.
Falaise du Castellas 84 in Cliff
- 1.1.1. Rolling stone 24 in Sector
- 1.1.2. Belle Époque 39 in Sector
- 1.1.3. Kalifornia 21 in Sector
-
1.2.
Barre du Moulinas 189 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Le jours du printemps 10 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Septième Sceau 13 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Ténéré 10 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Baisé Volé 20 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Soleil noir 22 in Sector
- 1.2.6. Pièce en Trois Actes 29 in Sector
- 1.2.7. Moi Vouloir Toit 15 in Sector
- 1.2.8. Lucifer 16 in Sector
- 1.2.9. Maelstrom 34 in Sector
- 1.2.10. Babylon 20 in Sector
-
1.1.
Falaise du Castellas 84 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Russan 273 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.926412, 4.337570
description
Russan is a beautiful located climbing spot along the river Gardon. The cliff faces south so it is perfect for cold winter days but during spring and autumn climbing can also be very nice! The routes below 7a are mainly slabs on a very solid and compact rock. If you go for higher grades the climbing gets steeper with some tufas.
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
approach
The approach takes about 30-40 minutes. The coordinates of the parking are (43.9349686, 4.3281952).
ethic
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Falaise du Castellas 84 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.926967, 4.336893
1.1.1. Rolling stone 24 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.926490, 4.335412
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Petite fée | 6a | ||||
2 | Masques et bourrasques | 6b | ||||
3 | Serpent d'étoile | 7a+ | ||||
4 | ★ Aurore marine | 5b | ||||
5 | Avant le temps | 6b | ||||
6 | L'arc en ciel de tes yeux | 6c+ | ||||
7 | Brise macrobiotique | 6c+ | ||||
8 | Des canards qui parlent | 6c | ||||
9 | Jouvence | 6b+ | ||||
10 | Principe entropique | 6b | ||||
11 | Rolling stones | 6b+ | ||||
12 | Lames de lune | 6a+ | ||||
13 | Le grand frisson | 6c | ||||
14 | Technicolor | 6a+ | ||||
15 | Ile de Ré | 6b | ||||
16 | Méléagrine | 6c | ||||
17 | Si bien de rentrer à pied | 6b | ||||
18 | Les fleurs | 6a+ | ||||
19 | Mélodéon | 6a+ | ||||
20 | Téléologie | 5c | ||||
21 | Nid d'aigle | 6a+ | ||||
22 | Nooshere | 6b+ | ||||
23 | Sur la piste de Laetoli | 6b+ | ||||
24 | Mur de poussière | 6c+ | 2 |
1.1.2. Belle Époque 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.927009, 4.336590
1.1.3. Kalifornia 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.927551, 4.338168
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Key Largo | 5b | ||||
2 | ★ Papa fusion | 6b | ||||
3 | ★ Venus | 5c | 20m | |||
4 | ★ Sol | 6c+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Germen | 6c+ | ||||
6 | Red roc | 7b | ||||
7 | Myosotis | 7a | ||||
8 | Kalifornia | 7a | ||||
9 | L'échappée belle | 7b+ | ||||
10 | Vasi vasa | 6b+ | ||||
11 | Farfadet | 5c | ||||
12 | Sortilège | 6a | ||||
13 | L'homme eau | 6a+ | ||||
14 | Les marches de sable | 5a | ||||
15 | Au pays des elfes | 5c | ||||
16 | Fide | 5c | 12m, 4 | |||
17 | Belles de Commercy | 6a | 12m, 5 | |||
18 | Au désert des étoiles | 6a+ | ||||
19 | La salsa pareille | 4c | ||||
20 | Le dièdre | 4b | 10m, 4 | |||
21 | Variante du dièdre | 5b | 10m, 4 |
1.2. Barre du Moulinas 189 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.2.1. Le jours du printemps 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ou vas-tu ? | 6b+ | ||||
2 | A l'autre bout de toi | 6b+ | ||||
3 | ★★ Ecorces confites | 6c | 30m | |||
4 | Maitre Capello | 6c | ||||
5 | Bouche attack | |||||
6 | Tourne bouboule | 7c | ||||
7 | Lichen contre attaque | 6b+ | ||||
8 | ★ Le regime fiscal des societes | 6a+ | 30m | |||
9 | Clip hard | 7a | ||||
10 | Le jour du printemps | 8a+ |
1.2.2. Septième Sceau 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Promeneur de minuit | 7a+ | ||||
2 | La métamorphose de Narcisse | 6b | ||||
3 | Crépuscule lunaire | 6a | ||||
4 | Labyrinthe | 5a | ||||
5 | Transparence vers le futur | 6a+ | ||||
6 | Grand Large | 6a+ | ||||
7 | Epitaphe | 6a+ | ||||
8 | Bactriane | 6a+ | ||||
9 | Le septième sceau | 6c | ||||
10 | Un autre monde | 6a | ||||
11 | Digitaline | 6a | ||||
12 | Le principe de la fin | 6a+ | ||||
13 | Elégie funèbre | 6b |
1.2.3. Ténéré 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Alizari | 6b | ||||
2 | Ténéré | 6c | ||||
3 | Infinitude | 7a | ||||
4 | Florilège | 6b+ | ||||
5 | Barkhane | 7b | ||||
6 | Murmure du désert | 6a+ | ||||
7 | Le pendule de Foucault | 6b | ||||
8 | Antinéa | 6a+ | ||||
9 | Calme | 4b | 22m, 4 | |||
10 | Rose des sables | 6a |
1.2.4. Baisé Volé 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le chemin des écoliers | 6a | ||||
2 | ★ Geneviève | 5c | ||||
3 | ★★ Baiser Volé | 5c | 23m | |||
4 | ★★ Murtine | 5a | ||||
5 | Apnée réflexe | 6b+ | ||||
6 | Sybarites s'abstenir | 6a | ||||
7 | Au delà du fleuve | 7a+ | ||||
8 | Où ca m'a mené l'éden? | 7c | ||||
9 | Et sous les arbres | 6c | ||||
10 | Où est la lune? | 6c | ||||
11 | ★★ 14 juillet 1986 | 5a | ||||
12 | Millefleurs | 5a | ||||
13 | Le poids des ans | 6c | ||||
14 | ★ Expostress | 6a | ||||
15 | Flûte de Krishna | 5c | ||||
16 | ★ Les 5 puissances | 6b | ||||
17 | L'austérité de Brahma | 5b | 25m, 9 | |||
18 | Bhagavatam | 6a+ | ||||
19 | ★ Les védas | 6c | ||||
20 | Gopinatha | 7b |
1.2.5. Soleil noir 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le plomb, le but et le mutant | 7a+ | ||||
2 | Le 3 chez Chantoisel | 7b | ||||
3 | Lorsque tu me liras | 7b+ | ||||
4 | Quai 98 | 7a+ | ||||
5 | C'est à prendre ou à laisser! | 7b | ||||
6 | Le souvenir, le savoir et l'oubli | 7b | ||||
7 | ★★ Saveur du soir | 6c+ | ||||
8 | ★★ Pulsion d'un jour | 6a | ||||
9 | Salade de style | 6c | ||||
10 | Soleil noir | 7a | ||||
11 | Canticum sacrum | 8b | ||||
12 | Mouvement fauve | 7c+ | ||||
13 | Rêve de Vishnu | 6c | ||||
14 | ★★★ Céline | 6c | ||||
15 | ★★ Ars longa vita brevis | 7a | ||||
16 | Jalousies | 7a+ | ||||
17 | Oh papé, c'est ugolin ! | 6c+ | ||||
18 | Laetitia (gauche) | 7a+ | ||||
19 | Laetitia (droite) | 6a | ||||
20 | ★★ Tamponnoir brisé | 6a+ | ||||
21 | ★ Courrier d'Autriche | 6b+ | ||||
22 | Lumière du vitrail | 7b |
1.2.6. Pièce en Trois Actes 29 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mauvais goût | 7c+ | ||||
2 | Danse de Shiva | 7b+ | ||||
3 | Mulholland Drive | 8a+ | ||||
4 | Les belles idées de Chico Mendes | 7b+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Taratata | 7a | ||||
6 | Le X | 6b+ | ||||
7 | Deux temps, trois mouvements | 6b+ | ||||
8 | Avant leurre | 5a | ||||
9 | Signé relax | 5c | ||||
10 | Double Dose | 6b+ | ||||
11 | La confrérie du souffle | 8a+ | ||||
12 | Série noire | 5a | ||||
13 | Zig zag | 5a | ||||
14 | Bas les pattes | 5a | ||||
15 | Patou | 4a | ||||
16 | Urgostyle | 6a | ||||
17 | Le temps est assassin | 7b | ||||
18 | Longue attente | 7b | ||||
19 | ★★ Primate égaré | 6a+ | ||||
20 | Reeves de l'espace | 7c | ||||
21 | Hypérion | 7c+ | ||||
22 | Endymion | 8a+ | ||||
23 | Check Point Charlie | 8a+ | ||||
24 | Russan pour sang | 8a | ||||
25 | Pièce en trois actes | 7c | ||||
26 | Small Crack | 7a | ||||
27 | Saccanagem | 7a+ | ||||
28 | 150 piques | 6c+ | ||||
29 | Varsothérapie | 7b |
1.2.7. Moi Vouloir Toit 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Concentré de tomates | 8a+ | ||||
2 | ★★ Futur au président | 8a+ | ||||
3 | Autoporteuse | 8a | ||||
4 | ★★★ Autoportrait | 8a+ | ||||
5 | ★★★ Octographe | 8b | ||||
6 | ★★★ Roubignolles | 8b | ||||
7 | Vers la lumière | 6c | ||||
8 | Quand tu fumes du shit... | 8a+ | ||||
9 |
Les yeux plus gros que les roubignoles
Starts in "Moi vouloir toit" and joins "Les yeux plus gros que l’antre" after 4 bolts. FFA: Tanguy Merard, Jan 2023 | 9a+ | ||||
10 |
Les yeux plus gros que le ventre
Set: Pierre Rouzo, 1999 | 9b | 45m | |||
11 |
Les yeux plus gros que l'antre / French Chilam Balam
Nicknamed the French Chilam Balam for its length and sustained difficulty. The route was bolted in the late nineties and is made of two parts: The first part (added later) is the extension start. The second part is the original "Les yeux plus gros que le ventre" (which means having eyes bigger than belly).
The first roof part is around 20-25 meters and weighs in around 8b+. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope. Then you have a bouldery crux featuring a one finger pocket to reach another rest. Until here it could be an 8c route. Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after this a series of bouldery sections: 7A, 7A, 7C+/8A and finally a 7B. All these boulder problems are amazing. Especially the redpoint crux of the route in the 7C+/8A boulder. There are incredible moves to finish on a tufa dyno. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk Set: Pierre Rouzo, 1999 FA: Sébastien Bouin, 11 May 2018 | 9a+/b | 70m | |||
12 | Connexion automne-hiver | 8a+ | ||||
13 |
★★★ Kung foune Panda
Ligne magnifique. Départ dans "les yeux...", milieu inédit avec deux sections pas faciles puis sortie dans "franc toit sournois". Resi/conti de 75 mouvements. FA: Loic Zehani, 29 Apr 2022 | 8c+ | 35m | |||
14 | ★★ Moi vouloir toit | 8a | ||||
15 |
★★ La confusion du genre
2 sections dures en gros Devers. À gauche de moi vouloir toit. | 8c |
1.2.8. Lucifer 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Tournoi d'échecs | 8c | ||||
2 | ★★★ Plus x | 8b+ | ||||
3 | ★ Kupulos nimbus | 8b | 12m | |||
4 | Gros sexe non désiré | 8a | ||||
5 | ★★ Les dix mouvements | 8b | ||||
6 | Une nympho à vérifier | 7c+ | ||||
7 | Rien que pour toi | 6c | ||||
8 | ★ Les yeux de Lucifer | 6a | ||||
9 | Eclipse | 6a+ | ||||
10 | Le temps d'un sourire | 6a+ | ||||
11 | ★ Grain de folie | 6a+ | ||||
12 | ★ Ergonome | 6a+ | ||||
13 | Micromicon | 6b | ||||
14 | Tagazou | 6b | ||||
15 | Temps imaginaire | 6c | ||||
16 | Lycaon | 7a+ |
1.2.9. Maelstrom 34 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nenni | 5a | ||||
2 | Orphée | 6b | ||||
3 | Régime sensuel | 7a+ | ||||
4 | Retraite anticipée | 6b+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Encore une fois | 6c | ||||
6 | ★★ Calgon | 7a+ | ||||
7 | ★★ Arrampicatopithèque | 6b | ||||
8 | ★★ Karakul | 6c | ||||
9 | ★★ Samarcande | 7a+ | ||||
10 | ★ Prudence | 7b | ||||
11 | ★★★ Casamance | 7b+ | ||||
12 | Loco motivée | 7a+ | ||||
13 | Footoof | 6c | ||||
14 | ★★ Quart de siècle | 8a | ||||
15 | ★★ Macumba | 7c | ||||
16 | ★★★ Maelstrom | 8a | ||||
17 | Tractopelle | 7c+ | ||||
18 |
No Spain no Gain
Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2021 FFA: Sébastien Bouin, Feb 2023 | 8c+ | ||||
19 | ★★★ Eau de colonne | 8a+ | ||||
20 |
Captain quook’s
Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2021 FFA: Sébastien Bouin, Feb 2023 | 8c+ | ||||
21 | Pipeline | 8a | ||||
22 | ★★ Scoliose | 8a | ||||
23 | ★★ Décadence | 7a+ | 20m | |||
24 | Lola | 7b+ | ||||
25 | Rouge total | 7a+ | ||||
26 | ★★ Les portes du chaos | 6c | ||||
27 | ★★ La forge du diable | 6c+ | ||||
28 | Attention fragile | 7a+ | ||||
29 | ★★ Zenith | 6c+ | ||||
30 | Prisonnier de l'inutile | 7c | ||||
31 | Ou l'horizon prend fin | 7b+ | ||||
32 | Russan avant J-C | 7c+ | ||||
33 | La ruse du nain ailé | 8b | ||||
34 | Incertain voyage | 6c+ |
1.2.10. Babylon 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Au seuil de l'univers | 6a | ||||
2 | Le cancer infernal de la fuite | 8a | ||||
3 | Le blues de Camille | 6b+ | ||||
4 | Acceptez ma légende | 6c+ | ||||
5 | ★★ Les tournesols | 6c+ | ||||
6 | L'orifice prodigue | 7c+ | ||||
7 | Babylone | 8a | ||||
8 | Vice de pute | 7c | ||||
9 | Kitsch Lorraine | 7c+ | ||||
10 | SDF | 7c | ||||
11 | Tintin et l'oreille recollée | 7c+ | ||||
12 | Commedia dell'arquée | 8a | ||||
13 | Imbroglio | 7c | ||||
14 | Haïku | 8a | ||||
15 | ★★ Petit déjeuner | 7b | ||||
16 | Mascarade | 7b+ | ||||
17 | Tox frot | 7a | ||||
18 | Tox frot droite | 6b | ||||
19 | Amuse-gueule | 5c | ||||
20 | Casse-croûte | 5c |