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Falkenwand

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Approach time: 10-20mins
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 64
33

Seasonality

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Description

One of the Winterspots of the Donautal. All routes are bolted but protections are far away from each other and the first bolt is often very high. On the left side of the cliff you will find classic routes from grade 5 to 7. Some of them are already polished. Most climbs follow cracks and dihedrals.

The 'Ameisenweg' belongs to the the musts in the valley and historically the routes 'Falkenwand' and 'Sperberverschneidung' are recommended.

Friends and rocks may be useful.

Access issues

Attention,
we should refrain from climbing the route 'Little Red Rooster', because probably an owl is preparing its brood in the cave at the slings. (Kai 03.04.2019)

Due to nature conservation the climbs right of 'Rottweiler Weg' are closed.

Approach

Park 100m before the railroad crossing (from Hausen 4.5km in direction Sigmaringen). From there follow the rails in the same direction until a path heads left up the hill. It is marked as a hiking trail to the ruin Falkenstein. Follow this path until the bottom of the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Donautal

Leave no trace

  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

Routes

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Grade Route

=[de]= Anstrengende Riss-Verschneidung. Nachdem 4. Haken beginnen die Schwierigkeiten und dann muss man dran bleiben, denn rasten kann man nicht wirklich.

=[en]= Strenuous crack dihedral. After the 4th hook the difficulties start and then you have to stay on it, because you can't really rest.

FFA: Georg Hermann, 1995

Leichteste Route am Fels und dementsprechend poliert, aber trotzdem gut.

#falken-trilogie

FFA: Georg Hermann, 1995

FFA: Georg Hermann & Pelz

Guter Handriss mit polierter und pumpiger Crux.

#falken-trilogie

FFA: Georg Hermann, 1995

FFA: Heidrich

Lohenend, steil und zum Schluss immer antrengender. Zwischen dem 2. und der 1. Sanduhrschlinge sollte/kann man einen Keil (BD Stopper 9/10) legen. Die ersten 2 Haken teil die Route sich mit der Route 'Hängender Block'.

FFA: Stöhr & Häussermann, 1988

Wirklich lohnende Route die alles bietet was das Herz begehrt. Mal schauen wie lange der angeklebte Block auf halber Höhe noch hält.

FFA: Volkert & Arthur Oswald †, 1976

1 5- 25m
2 5+ 15m

Classic route with a traverse at the end of the first pitch. The first pitch starts with a ramp-crack. Don't follow the dihedral straight to the top, head right a little bit down to the belay. Always follow the rings. From the belay it goes up and then back to the left into the direction of the dihedral.

Tolle Verschneidung mit durchgehendem Faustriss. Unten sieht es stark nach Schwabenbruch aus, aber es lohnt sich, denn das Minidach ist super.

#falken-trilogie

Open to be send.

Set by Georg Hermann

FFA: Schupp & Georg Hermann, 1984

FA: Mayer & Arthur Oswald †, 1957

FFA: Georg Hermann, 1995

FFA: Georg Hermann, 1995

FFA: Georg Hermann, 1995

FA: Mayer & Arthur Oswald †, 1957

The following routes are closed due to nature conservation issues.

FFA: Brotzer, 1989

FFA: Brotzer, 1989

FFA: Brotzer, 1989

FFA: Nordmann & Maier, 1987

FA: Schwarz & Hanischdörfer, 1934

FFA: Paschrat, 1989

FFA: Braun & Leuchsner, 1985

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