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Description

One of the Winterspots of the Donautal. All routes are bolted but protections are far away from each other and the first bolt is often very high. On the left side of the cliff you will find classic routes from grade 5 to 7. Some of them are already polished. Most climbs follow cracks and dihedrals.

The 'Ameisenweg' belongs to the the musts in the valley and historically the routes 'Falkenwand' and 'Sperberverschneidung' are recommended.

Friends and rocks may be useful.

Access issues

Due to nature conservation the climbs right of 'Rottweiler Weg' are closed.

Approach

Park 100m before the railroad crossing (from Hausen 4.5km in direction Sigmaringen). From there follow the rails in the same direction until a path heads left up the hill. It is marked as a hiking trail to the ruin Falkenstein. Follow this path until the bottom of the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

=[de]= Anstrengende Riss-Verschneidung. Nachdem 4. Haken beginnen die Schwierigkeiten und dann muss man dran bleiben, denn rasten kann man nicht wirklich.

=[en]= Strenuous crack dihedral. After the 4th hook the difficulties start and then you have to stay on it, because you can't really rest.

FFA: Hermann, 1996

FFA: Hermann, 1996

FFA: Hermann & Pelz

FFA: Hermann, 1996

FFA: Heidrich

FFA: Stöhr & Häussermann, 1988

FFA: Oswald & Volkert, 1976

Classic route with a traverse at the end of the first pitch. The first pitch starts with a ramp-crack. Don't follow the dihedral straight to the top, head right a little bit down to the belay. Always follow the rings. From the belay it goes up and then back to the left into the direction of the dihedral.

Open to be send.

Set by Hermann

FFA: Schupp & Hermann, 1985

FFA: Oswald

FA: Mayer & Oswald, 1957

FFA: Hermann, 1996

FFA: Hermann, 1996

FFA: Hermann, 1996

FFA: Oswald

FA: Mayer & Oswald, 1957

The following routes are closed due to nature conservation issues.

FFA: Brotzer, 1989

FFA: Brotzer, 1989

FFA: Brotzer, 1989

FFA: Nordmann & Maier, 1987

FA: Schwarz & Hanischdörfer, 1934

FFA: Paschrat, 1989

FFA: Braun & Leuchsner, 1985

Activity

Check out what is happening in Falkenwand.