Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★ Crazy Bohrer | 15m, 3 | |||||
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
7- Hard | ★★ Sendeschluß | 12m, 2 | |||||
7 Easy | ★★ Sportschau | 13m, 4 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Spätfilm — 2 attempts | 13m, 5 | |||||
7+ | ★ Simsalabim Sabrina | 10m, 1 | |||||
7 | ★★ Sportschau | 13m, 4 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Spätfilm | 13m, 5 | |||||
Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Der Sinn des Lebens | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
7+ Easy | ★★ Schattenröschen | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
8+/9- ~9- | ★★★ Monsun | 20m, 7 | |||||
7+ Easy | ★★ Schattenröschen | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
8+ | ★ Chaos in Laos | 10m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Sendeschluß | 12m, 2 | |||||
7+ ~8- | ★ Simsalabim Sabrina | 10m, 1 | |||||
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Schattenröschen | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
8- | Hakenweg | 15m, 7 | Don't Bother | ||||
Scheiße
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7+ | ★ Crazy Bohrer | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 13th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with Bigi | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just had to #repeat it again. Got some beta from the ground since it's been a while, but I probably wouldn't have needed it, all fell into place anyway. The finish felt totally easy today, my crack skills definitely improved massively.
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9- | ★★ Flip Flap - with KP | 20m, 6 | |||||
Still couldn't figure out how to climb the crux. Had the second bolt preclipped, though, so I was able to pull myself up to the jugs and enjoy the beautiful slab above (around 7+?).
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6 | ★ Schinderriss - with KP | 16m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Easy direct finish to "Oberngruber Weg". Chimney climber's warmup for this crag.
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Schattenröschen | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
7 | ★★ Teufelsriss - with KP | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed the route as originally intended to the summit (via the big north face ledge and the old north face route as second pitch). 30 meters of brilliant climbing.
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Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Fexenstein | |||||||
4 | ★★ Alter Weg - with KP | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly easy and in good rock. Traverses around the corner from the middle of the south face.
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6+ 5- A1 | Südwand - with KP | 10m | Don't Bother | ||||
Short, difficult crack, then extremely crumbly rock above (but with an interesting, unusual composition, lots of quartz crystals), also with some bigger hollow structures.
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Fri 29th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Sendeschluß | 12m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6+ | ★★ Spätfilm | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 20th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
7+ | ★ Simsalabim Sabrina | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Sendeschluß | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 19th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Spätfilm | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 14th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★ Crazy Bohrer - with mantra | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Did the sequence wrong, and it's really all about the sequence... successfully warmed up, though.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with mantra | 20m, 7 | |||||
It took me quite a while to figure out a good beta for me, both for the crux at the second bolt as well as for the finish.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with mantra | 20m, 7 | |||||
Second try, made every mistake there is to make, still got about two thirds up, then fell, completely exhausted. For what it's worth, this is an 8+/9- that might actually be harder than 8+ for once.
For my future self (spoilers start here): Tape left middle finger, right middle and ring finger for the sharp holds. First crux: Go straight up to the two double-pockets, twist left for a reachy move into the bad pocket (index but mostly middle finger worked best). Put right foot a bit higher (hard to see pocket), then place left foot (no hook) on the little ledge. Use mono to get up, then left hand into the hold on the flake (it sucks, deal with it), then maybe right hand into the next bad pocket (not sure anymore). Then, this is vital, right foot into the higher one of the good pockets. Now barely reach the top of the flake. Sketchy clip. For the finish: First of all, rest on ledgy holds below. Don't miss the good pockets in the "pillar" on the right side of the crack. Use the first one with the right hand instead of reaching far up and right to the tempting pockets. Then use the second pocket as an undercling to get into the slit on the right. From the slit, first get the left hand in the topmost part of the crack (little finger gets stuck a bit), put the left foot on the somewhat hidden crimp in the crack, then the good hold up left is within reach. It looks too far away, but it isn't. Then just one-arm-pull yourself up, or I don't know, do what you still can at this point. |
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Tue 5th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Sportschau | 13m, 4 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Spätfilm | 13m, 5 | |||||
7- | ★★ Sendeschluß | 12m, 2 | |||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
7 | ★ Armriss | 10m | |||||
9 | ★★ Maud | 15m, 3 | |||||
8- | ★★ Orion | 10m, 2 | |||||
10- | 00 Faber | ||||||
5 | ★★ Nordwand | 20m | |||||
9- | ★ Siegfried | 10m, 2 | |||||
10- | ★★ Die Kante | ||||||
6 | ★★ Direkte Nordwand | 35m | |||||
7 | ★★ Teufelsriss | 18m | |||||
8- | ★★ Westwand | 15m | |||||
7- | ★★ Mandel Gedenkweg | 35m | |||||
8- | ★ Dröhnland | 15m, 2 | |||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Sportschau | 13m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★★ Sendeschluß | 12m, 2 | |||||
6+ | ★★ Spätfilm | 13m, 5 | |||||
8+ | ★ Chaos in Laos | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
9 | Sackgasse | 20m, 7 | |||||
8+ 8+/9- | ★★ High Times | 20m, 7 | |||||
8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun | 20m, 7 | |||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | |||||||
10- | Silberhaar | ||||||
10- | ★★★ Kaum Zeit zum Atmen | 18m, 4 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Fakir | 15m, 4 | |||||
9- | ★★★ Spargeltarzan | 20m, 5 | |||||
9- | ★ Nette Jungs | 16m | |||||
6 | ★★ Verschneidung | 15m, 2 | |||||
10 | Fiese Luise | ||||||
Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Burggruber Block | |||||||
9+ | Atom Heart Mother | 15m, 2 | |||||
10- | Adrenalin | 15m, 2 | |||||
Sun 25th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Schattenröschen | 18m, 6 | |||||
Sun 25th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Feierabendwand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Sportschau - with Stephan H | 13m, 4 | |||||
8- 7+ | ★ Simsalabim Sabrina - with Stephan H | 10m, 1 | |||||
Bei mir im Guide mit 8- bewertet, erscheint mir fair
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Sun 25th Jul 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Schattenröschen - with Stephan H | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Leicht für den Grad
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Mon 10th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7 | ★★ Oberngruber Weg - with Markus Benning | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
We did it in two pitches. I led the chimney and the traverse to the arête, Markus the rest. Funky chimney, quite hard to get out to the first bolt. Great juggy traverse, and then the finishing hand crack that most people only experience when climbing "Monsun". #warmup
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9- | ★★ Der Sinn des Lebens - with Markus Benning | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Oh Jeez … basically an onsight attempt. Went pretty smoothly until the crux … which I could also climb astonishingly well, considering that I didn't even manage to climb through it last time I tried. And then I managed to get myself too pumped on the shallow sloper pockets afterwards and lost my nerve … just a single move away from the anchor.
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9- | ★★ Der Sinn des Lebens - with Markus Benning | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Yeah well.
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8+ 8+/9- | ★★★ Monsun - with Markus Benning | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Just a great route. #repeat
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9- | ★★ Flip Flap - with Markus Benning | 20m, 6 | |||||
Didn't work out … couldn't find a solution to get to the second bolt, so I bailed. Apparently you have to put your right foot quite far into the slab on the right?
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7+ | ★★ Schattenröschen - with Markus Benning | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 4th May 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Oberngruber Wand | |||||||
7- 6 | ★ Schinderriss | 16m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
8+ 8 | ★ Kreuzgang | 16m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 6th Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
5 | ★★ Nordwand - with Christoph Rauch | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
What an icy trip! Christoph Rauch first cleared the snow, then the rest of us seconded after him, which turned out to be a wise choice. Traversing to the anchor is quite sketchy, even without slippery frozen footholds. The pitch to the top is nice though, with a tricky finish. Following the old customs, I almost hit my head on the cross right after having heaved myself up onto the plateau.
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5 | ★★ Nordwand - with Bovist, Ellen, Daniel | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another winter adventure. Less vegetation than last time; more snow and ice instead. Immediately at the beginning, I placed a skyhook, weighted it, and brushed as much of the snow off the small holds as possible. Then went back to the beginning and started the traverse. After just a meter, I used a stiff sling as a lasso to catch a good horn, then risked weighting a small, moist foothold that got the horn into reach. Grabbed it with both hands, swung around the corner and crawled through the snow onto the belay ledge. The second pitch looked much more climbable, but some holds between the first and second bolt were so wet from the snow that I couldn't feel my fingers at all. I carefully crept upwards, took a good rest in the giant bird bath and buckled up for the snow and grass leading to the final little wall which was fortunately dry. #puffpoint #snowpoint #jahreserste2021
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Mon 9th Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | |||||||
8 | ★★★ Fakir | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Strange to trust the footholds at this wall in the beginning;) great bouldery finish!
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9- | ★★★ Spargeltarzan | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
About 4 degrees... even if the friction was awesome, totally frozen fingers made it more scary than fun... anyway nice techy climb:)
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | |||||||
9 9/9+ | ★★ Team Motivation | 16m, 5 | |||||
10 | Fiese Luise | ||||||
Sun 18th Oct 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
10- | Kante links | ||||||
Tue 22nd Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | |||||||
10 | Fiese Luise | ||||||
4th try definitely not my style
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Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | |||||||
8+ | ★ Sexappeal - with David X | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Had forgotten my beta from last time for the most part, so I had to boulder around again. Found out that my ring finger was small enough to fit into the little mono in the crux, brilliant!
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8+ | ★ Sexappeal - with David X | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Almost got my finger stuck in the mono. But the sequence resolved nicely this way. Now on to harder projects here!
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Sun 13th Sep 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
6 | ★★ Direkte Nordwand - with David X | 35m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did it in two pitches, seconded the first, lead the second. Hit my head on the cross on the summit after getting the book out of the box. The bruise will stay with me for a while. Climbing is dangerous! #repeat
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7 | ★★ Teufelsriss - with David X | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
There was a lady top rope soloing this after inspecting "Fat Patrol", which inspired me to #repeat this classic. Such a fantastic line.
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Sun 5th Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
6 | ★★ Direkte Nordwand | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
runouts and more runouts, 1st climb in the franken and it doesn't disappoint, when will you ever get a 6a that have a mono on it :p psyched to get use to the hard style of climbing here.
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7 | ★★ Teufelsriss | 18m | Average | ||||
warn to self, never ever get on a crack in the franken, my pants was probably stain with some brown stuff and my nuts shrink up my cavity sack. from the 1st bolt which is like 6 metres off the ground and then you get the crux of the climb with no clips which if you fall it will be a ground fall and then you get to clip after reaching like a side pull. zzz
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8- | ★★ Westwand | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
one of the better lines here with the super technical and balancy moves on monos and crimpy slopers, can't believe this is a 6c/6c+
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Fri 3rd Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Burggruber Wand | |||||||
8- | ★ Eiertanz - with Harald | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Interesting slab problem. Footwork!
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7- | ★ Freundschaft - with Harald | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Quite an interesting and well-protected traverse after the easy dihedral start. Technique wins.
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9- | Viel Vergnügen - with Harald | 12m, 4 | |||||
Just gave it a shot because someone needed to get the draws out of the start of "Freundschaft". Gave up at the last bolt because it seemed super hard and blank and I didn't want to pull on the bad mono.
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6 | ★★ Scherbeckriss - with Harald | 17m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Always nice to do these old cracks. #repeat
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Fri 3rd Jul 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein | |||||||
8+ | ★★ Team Masturbation - with Harald | 16m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A really good route, but also an extremely tough one. The first bolt (or rather, the old, worn out sling in the old expansion bolt next to the first bolt) can only be clipped after stepping into the wall from the block. At this point, you're already 15 meters above the ground, and there's only a mediocre crimp and some decent foot holds. I managed to clip the first bolt of "Emma Dilemma" to the left, then clipped the dreaded first bolt. The actual route is technical face climbing on small crimps and pockets. Confusing and seemingly holdless after the second bolt, but turns out you're climbing diagonally up to the right, to traverse back in to the third bolt via some sharper pockets. The finish is quite powerful and dynamic.
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7 | ★ Armriss - with Harald | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Short, but rough offwidth. Some hand and fist jams, but otherwise just shove in what you can. Big cams necessary.
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8- | ★ Dröhnland - with Harald | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Didn't read the finish correctly and didn't want to use too many holds of "Westwand", so I fell off. Turns out the crux is the same as in "Westwand", just approached from the right instead. Small nut before the first bolt is sensible. #lastrouteoftheday
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6 |
★★ Mandel Gedenkweg (Mandel Gedenkweg P2)
- with
Harald
1
6
15m
2
5
20m
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I actually wanted to climb the whole thing, but ended up not doing the last pitch. Climbed in on the via "Direkte Talseite"; the traverse of the second pitch is easy and very nice. The third pitch was originally done using rope tension. Guess I'll have to be in a reckless mood to try it. Finished to the summit by going a bit to the left and manteling up (also scary, but way more obvious).
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Sat 9th May 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | |||||||
9 9/9+ | ★★ Team Motivation - with Tobias | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Didn't get the crux 100% right, so I was too exhausted afterwards. Tried again and took the whipper from the clipping position, which is actually totally unproblematic and fun.
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9 9/9+ | ★★ Team Motivation - with Tobias | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
My new beta from a month ago made it seem so easy now. Not nearly as pumpy as I had imagined it. Feels absolutely great to climb this. I got a cramp in my left biceps around the second bolt, but fortunately could get rid of it before continuing with the route.
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