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Description

some awesome looking lines but certainly no gifts here. get ready for some spanking.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, when you see the first houses in Behringersmühle ( about 300m before) is a parking spot that suits 2 cars to your right. if this is already full drive into Behringersmühle and park here. walk up the little path oposite the parking to reach Dornröschenwand. GPS: 11.34613, 49.78283

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The flake is way too short,just enough protection to make it safe.

can be done with an exit to the right which avoids the boulder at the Top. In fact hardly anyone goes for the direct finish.

https://vimeo.com/135546439

FFA: Julian Söhnlein, 2015

the left crack line. quite green these days...

sort of a novelty, climb the right crack line protected by the same row of bolts

must have been bolted by someone 2m tall! rather anoying bolting but otherwise a great climb.

Activity

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