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Summary

Small, but iconic crag with overhanging classics.

Description

The three main routes here share the same characteristics: small holds and slabby in the beginning, then a powerful, steep overhang. The middle one, "Supernase", is well-known for Wolfgang Güllich †'s solo ascents in the 80s. The route is accompanied to the left with another classic Martin Grulich route, "Albatros", and to the right with a later addition by Stefan Löw, "Top Ten". A good warmup route is the vertical crack line of "Gaffer im Nacken".

Access issues

This is as much in someone's personal space as it gets, so please be careful here! You can chat to the owners of the place since you're in their garden in front of the terrace. Stay away in the evenings and on Sundays.

Approach

GPS: 11.33591, 49.76817

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: A. Weiß, 1989

FFA: M. Grulich

FFA: M. Grulich

FFA: S. Löw, 1998

Activity

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