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Summary

not many crags which offer some Grade 6+ climbs which stay dry if it starts raining. sometimes it seeps after long periods of rain though.

Description

One of the higher crags in franken, and after the rebolting efforts of Stefan Löw certainly worth a visit.Some real gems here, long and sustained climbs, bring your 70m rope!

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from the center of Gössweinstein west towards Morschreuth. just before you reach the Gas-station is a turn off right named "An der Martinswand", straight down this to the End. Park Here. Walk further down for a few meters and turn left onto a small path. follow this along leftwards without loosing too much height until you reach the crag. GPS: 11.32836, 49.76913

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

chimney start and a technical middle section lead to a bum shaped crack. dont put your fingers in too far! rewarding.

starts like "den süßen Mächen", but takes the left line over the bulge

Shares the start; after the technical start, you have to gain some choss but don't worry, right after the rooflet the rock improves and the climbing makes up for it, sweet girls …

a right exit to den süßen Mädchen

a real adventure! fantastic and varied, the first bolt is quite high and you might want to back up with natural pro. if you know how to use doubles its easily climbed in one pitch, but you can set up belay in the middle if you want. finish off at the chains of Fernfahrer if you want to lower off.

FFA: Stefan Löw

crack climbing with a steep finish added. very good! it might feel quite solid for the grade if you come straight from the gym

Activity

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