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Morgenleite

20

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Summary

Some worthwhile climbs in the 8 grade and some very short and steep recent additions make this a crag suitable to strong and elsewhere bored locals. Lots of trees will keep it mostly cool in summer.

Description

Not the crag you will take your overseas visitors to. It might still be worthwile if you look for a few routes in the 8-grade range, these routes certainly look best. There is drinking water from a fountain near the road.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Behringersmühle towards Waischenfeld. A few km after Schottersmühle you will find a small sign on the left with "Riesenburg" and anoher 100m a bigger parking lot on the right (next to a little stone building), park here. Walk across the river and turn right on the walking track. 200m down the valley you will see the crag on your left; scramble up the hardly visible track (50m) GPS: 11.29882, 49.80401

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Andreas Häfele, 2003

FFA: Holger Längner, 2011

FFA: Jörg Perwitzschky, 2020

FFA: Peter Randelzhofer, 2003

FFA: Peter Randelzhofer, 2003

The first route here, follow the ring bolts. The glue-ins in the line are new and do not belong to the route. Take a sling for the rock tunnel after the second ring if you want to climb the original.

FFA: Klaus Bauernschmitt

FFA: Andreas Häfele, 2003

FFA: Andreas Häfele, 2003

FFA: Torsten Schierz & Alma, 2015

FFA: Torsten Schierz, 2015

FFA: Alma, 2015

2 start variants

FFA: Alma, 2015

FFA: Alma, 2015

FA: Paul Schellhorn & Henry Opitz

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2004

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner, 2004

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