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Summary

small Crag but well worth a visit and its next to Trautner Ged. Wand.

Description

face climbing with little bulges on nice rock!

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive in Pottenstein to the turnoff for Waldcafe, park here (since the Road to Waldcafe is Private & for Customers only!) walk towards Waldcafe (about 500m) and cross the creek on the right on a small bridge. now right on the path for 100m, and sharp left uphill for another 100m. you can see Trautner Ged. Wand high up on the right, scramble up the path for 150m and take a turnoff to left to the visible Crag. GPS: 11.42156, 49.76925

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

good climbing with the hard bit at the bulge down low

great and continuous, with a bouldermove over the bulge at the top

a bit technical at the 3rd bolt, the rest is jugs

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2013

starts as for Denk Positiv, and then rightwards

Activity

Check out what is happening in Zum Waldcafe.