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Summary

Slightly overhung to nearly roof is what to expect here. Good rock quality and few people make this a great choice even on weekends.

Description

Since this crag is up on the hillside it has a very nice and open feeling to it, even though it's in the forest. The climbing is technical, and on three of the routes, well, bloody steep is the correct term I believe.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein to Behringersmühle. Turn right towards Bayreuth, and park at the signed parking lot on your right. Walk further on this track past a house on your right and a little crag on your left with two projects. From here, another 300m on the track, then turn left onto a steep footpath uphill to the crag in another 200m (the path starts in a dry creek bed in front of a large boulder).

GPS: 11.34586, 49.78438

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 2000

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 2000

The leftmost line on the main roof; it thankfully avoids the steepest stuff and sneaks its way around the left. Better than it looks.

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 2000

FFA: Hubert Hoiczyk, 1999

FFA: Harald Röker, 1999

First 11+ in the Frankenjura and in central Europe.

FFA: Alex Megos, 1 Oct 2015

FFA: Sebastien Hémery, 2000

FFA: Harald Röker, 2000

Popular since you get the top-rope after the warmup here, certainly not because it's an easy tick. Some say it's 8a anyway.

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 1999

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 2000

Crawl over the boulder start to find a lot of good holds on the way to what could end with a surprise (as long as some idiots don't tick the hell out of it); fantastic.

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 2000

The far right on the main wall, a good prep route for Amazonenpfeiler just in case you opt for the classics …

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 2000

This one's over on the other side on a little satellite, but well worth doing! 6's don't come like that very often.

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 1999

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