Richard-Wagner-Fels Mostly Sport climbing24 routes in crag
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Probably one of the most famous crags in the Frankenjura. It was given its name due to its silhouette when looked upon from the west, which bears a striking resemblance to the German composer. Yet its fame largely doesn't derive from this curious circumstance. Instead, the rock was catapulted to fame by Kurt Albert † and Wolfgang Güllich † at the beginning of the 80's, when they made first free ascents of "Direkte Westwand", "Fight Gravity" and "Magnet", the former two having seen solo ascents by Kurt Albert † in the years to come.
Aforementioned classics have all gained a fair amount of polish over the years; the easier routes are climbed far less often, which might also lend itself to their rather runout nature.
There is a ring cemented in the very top, hard to find in the moss under a little pine tree. Good for setting up belay but not suitable for toproping.
Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- Zone 1: NO climbing
- Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
- Zone 3: new route possible
Please respect signs and zoning list
Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord
- The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
- Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
- Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
- Don't leave toilet paper
- Pick up rubbish
- No noise
- No camp fire and bivvy
- Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
- Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
- No publishing of boulder blocks
- In 2007, the trees around the rock have been cut down.
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