Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Summary

Famous for being the home of the extreme classics "Fight Gravity" and "Magnet".

Description

Probably one of the most famous crags in the Frankenjura. It was given its name due to its silhouette when looked upon from the west, which bears a striking resemblance to the German composer. Yet its fame largely doesn't derive from this curious circumstance. Instead, the rock was catapulted to fame by Kurt Albert † and Wolfgang Güllich † at the beginning of the 80's, when they made first free ascents of "Direkte Westwand", "Fight Gravity" and "Magnet", the former two having seen solo ascents by Kurt Albert † in the years to come.

Aforementioned classics have all gained a fair amount of polish over the years; the easier routes are climbed far less often, which might also lend itself to their rather runout nature.

There is a ring cemented in the very top, hard to find in the moss under a little pine tree. Good for setting up belay but not suitable for toproping.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive down the valley from Obertrubach. When you drive past Reichelsmühle (a big sawmill), the crag is on your right, but keep driving, there is a parking lot 200m down the road. GPS: 11.32554, 49.69007

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

History

View historical timeline

  • In 2007, the trees around the rock have been cut down.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1980

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1986

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1982

FFA: Martin Grulich, 1990

start in the obvious crack at the walking track. at the end of it head rightwards to a belay on a ledge. you could set up here or if you feel comfortable up following the undercling around the bulge (you will not b e able to communicate top-bottom). the last 10m is scrambling up the grass/rock to the top.

same as the original but after the crack work your way straight up and over the bulge with the one shiny bolt. the end is the same as the original.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Richard-Wagner-Fels.