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Summary

Classic autumn and winter crag with lots of routes in the lower grades.

Description

The Rodenstein is the south peak of the "Ehrenbürg" hill and is its only crag that remains open for climbing. The wall is facing south-west and is sunny from late morning until sunset. The routes all have a classical touch and there is a big selection of climbs in the lower grades.

The most popular routes (easiest first) are "Schlaifhausener Kante", "Margarethenwand" and "Frankenschnellweg".

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

In Schlaifhausen follow the signs towards Walbela. After 800 m, there is a gravelled parking lot. Walk up the saddle between Walberla and Rodenstein and turn right (south). After about 350 meters, a small track leads through the trees down to the foot of the crag.

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1976

new exit - straight up

5m rechts vom Winterleitenweg an Südkante 5m hinauf und rechts vom Überhang (H) über ihn. Gerade empor (H) zum Umlenker.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Rodenstein.