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Summary

High tower with compact rock. Classic north face and lots of good, hard routes in the upper grade range.

Description

Many generations of climbers have contributed to the climbing history of this high tower with its compact, smooth surface. The first challenge, reaching the summit, had been achieved by throwing a rope over the top in 1909, but already a few years later, a now-famous duo of climbers Georg Vollrath and Toni Rockstroh made their way up the "Nordwand", traversing in from the uphill side. The direct line from the bottom, "Direkte Nordwand" was established 40 years later by Karl Thon, but in the meantime, the same ledge had been reached by Hans Teufel, climbing the fierce-looking and aptly named "Teufelsriss".

The key figures of the redpoint movement also left their mark on the tower in the 1980s, establishing quite a few baseclimbs and with "Team Masturbation" (Wolfgang Güllich †) and "Emma Dilemma" (Manfred Eichhorn) the first routes taking a completely different path to the summit. Also noteworthy is "Maud", a classic 7A boulder problem by Wolfgang Fietz.

In the first decade of the second millennium, even the steep walls of the uphill sides have witnessed ascents by Markus Bock of various routes at the upper end of the spectrum, culminating in "Becoming" in 2014.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Burggrub towards Oberngrub; about 200m after the last houses of Burggrub you will find a dirt road turning left. Park here and follow the dirt road uphill at every fork (it turns right, then left) up to a massive boulder to your right. Turn left; after a few meters, a steep path on the right will lead you to the bottom of the crag. Alternatively, you can follow the road further to a junction, turn right and right again after a few meters for a gentler approach.

GPS: 11.13520, 49.86940

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: M. Bock, 2011

FFA: M. Bock, 2011

Starts on House of Shock, goes left and finishes on The Elder Statesman

FFA: Markus Bock, 2014

FFA: M. Bock, 2012

FFA: M. Bock, 2002

FFA: W. Güllich

FA: T. Rockstroh & G. Vollrath, 1912

FA: K. Thon, 1955

FFA: N. Bätz, 1991

used to be an old Flipper Fitz Boulder Problem and was graded (Fb 7a)

FFA: S. Gschwendtner, 1983

you can add a sitstart, named Black Angel (Fb 7b+)

FFA: M. Scheel, 1985

FFA: M. Bock, 2011

FA: H. Teufel, 1928

FFA: H. Seidel, 1989

FFA: B. Faber, 1996

the left of the two slabs and well worthwile! dort worry about the space to the chain, if you manage to sneak your way up the wall you will be cruising the top!

Activity

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