Quite a journey! Starts with a crimpy boulder and does not ease of till the end. Pumped as hell clipping the chains. Technical footholes and varied styles in one route.
2nd rp. Super schöne Wandkletterei, einfach gute Bewegungen. Der Einstieg etwas steiler und löchrig und danach gibt es noch ne schöne Crux nach der Pause Position.
Quite a bit harder than the original line "Nix wie weg!", but also the better finish, much more homogeneous. The moves over the overhang are hard for smaller people (luckily I'm not that small) and you can only guess where the good holds are. Had to juggle around a bit and got quite pumped before I could reach the saving jug.
Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a greatlayback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP
Fumbled around a bit in the first difficult part with the sidepulls. From there on it went smoothly through the undercling passage and into the final crux, which I took on a bit on the left. Then it turned out I couldn't reach the obvious hold statically from my position so I bumped over, only to realise I want to be there with my other hand. Switching handspumped me up so hard I almost fell off the tricky (and at first glance holdless) top section. Still a few loose bits in the route, take care.
Neat climb along the obvious features, on pockets, crimpers, and sidepulls. Crux for me was at the end of the layback, almost lost my cool. Easier but still delicate to the top.