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Summary

all the connected Crags offer a wide variety of grades, styles and even the rock varies a bit. Shade all day make it a great summer location.

Description

This Crag is part of a series of cliffs called Schlaraffenland, all conveniently close together.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list

Approach

Drive from Pommelsbrunn towards Hirschbach, right at the beginning of the village is a big Parking spot for hikers. walk into Hirschbach and turn right after 100 meters onto a narrow road leading uphill (Neutras). follow this to the end (120m), then left onto dirt and left again at a fork. after another 120m you can follow a path up towards Teufelsrissmassiv, and simply walk along until you get there, its the 5th crag of Schlaraffenland which lines the valley above Hirschbach. GPS: 11.53322, 49.55327

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Jan Luft, 2004

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1985

FFA: Gerald Böff, 1999

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1985

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1987

FFA: Oliver Trautmann, 2007

FFA: Oliver Trautmann, 2007

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1986

FFA: Thomas Heinze

FFA: D. Wimmer, 2005

FFA: Oskar Bühler, 1935

Activity

Check out what is happening in Schmidbergwand.