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Teufelsrissmassiv

Seasonality

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Summary

all the connected Crags offer a wide variety of grades, styles and even the rock varies a bit. Shade all day make it a great summer location.

Description

This Crag is part of a series of cliffs called Schlaraffenland, all conveniently close together.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Pommelsbrunn towards Hirschbach, right at the beginning of the village is a big Parking spot for hikers. walk into Hirschbach and turn right after 100 meters onto a narrow road leading uphill (Neutras). follow this to the end (120m), then left onto dirt and left again at a fork. after another 120m you can follow a path up towards the crag, its the first crag of Schlaraffenland which lines the valley above Hirschbach. GPS: 11.52982, 49.55199

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1987

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1988

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1987

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1986

Crux is the traverse at the 3rd bolt.

FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1987

Branches left off from Akira after bolt 2.

Set: Markus Windisch

FFA: Moritz Welt, 27 Jul 2019

FFA: Karsten Oelze, 1999

FA: Oskar Bühler, 1935

FFA: Joshua Schulz, 2012

FFA: Arno Dimmler, 2000

FFA: Arno Dimmler, 1995

FFA: Markus Bock, 2006

FA: Markus Bock, 2018

FFA: Guido Köstermeyer, 1995

FFA: Alex Megos, May 2014

FA: Hans Teufel, 1950

FFA: Friederike Saam, 2001

Power It's losing a few holds every now and then. Still worth doing though.

To many voices on FJ.com proposing grade 5+

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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