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Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new route possible

Please respect signs and zoning list


Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, when you see the first houses in Behringersmühle ( about 300m before) is a parking spot that suits 2 cars to your right. if this is already full drive into Behringersmühle and park here. walk up the little path oposite the parking to reach dornröschenwand. about 400m left of it is another path that leads to the crag in 50m. GPS: 11.35071, 49.78486

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft - please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolt - use your own carabiner.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper
  • Pick up rubbish
  • No noise
  • No camp fire and bivvy
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at weekend)
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from 1. march til 31. october by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks


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Grade Route

unfortunately this climb is overgrown and need some cleaning

its climbable without additional protection, some wires will make it safer though. an exelent climb, a corner crack everyone should try.

sustained on lovely rock, one of the best 7a's in Franken

FFA: Klemens Nicklaus, 1989

not as sustained as its neighbor bot still great climbing!

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2011

FFA: Stefan Löw, 2011

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1996


Check out what is happening in Schonunger Wand.