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Trockauer Wand

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
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S
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D

Summary

Sensational climbing in a shady hole.

Description

Some really fantastic lines for those who can climb 9- and up. Some more recent additions by local Markus Bock add to the appeal for strong men & women. The only disadvantage is that lots of routes share the start and it is partly wet quite often.

Access issues inherited from Frankenjura Nord

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

  • Zone 1: NO climbing
  • Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
  • Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

Approach

Drive from Pottenstein towards Behringersmühle, park at Camping Bärenschlucht. From the campsite, walk across the street, up towards Erinnerungswand and follow the walking track to the left past Weidener Wand. GPS: 11.38820, 49.77654

Where to stay

Camping Bärenschlucht

Ethic inherited from Frankenjura Nord

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
  • Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
  • No publishing of boulder blocks.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

FA:

FFA: Hans Ringler, 1992

FFA: Markus Bock, 2003

these days a very popular 8a

FFA: Markus Bock, 2011

FFA: Markus Bock, 2003

climb past 5 bolts over the bulge and finish off steinlaus. (lazy climbers end it after the bulge)

start right of the "bulge", at the second bolt traverse left on slopers past 3 bolts, then up.

it used to start like H-Bloxx but it's mostly climbed via the corner left of the bulge which maybe adds a bit to the difficulty.

very solid pocket climbing. mostly on first digit holds.

FFA: Klaus Kaumeier, 1994

It comes down to a single hard move... well not quite, but there are more sustained offerings at this crag.

FFA: Stefan Löw, 1987

Set: Julian Söhnlein

FFA: Alex Megos, 2015

FFA: Sebastian Sebald, 2009

the dirty corner, exits to the right

FFA: Moritz Perwitzschky, 2017

FFA: Klaus Kaumeier, 1992

If you find the start slippery then because it is. Crawl in from the right and preclip if you don't want to solo the start.

FFA: Heinz Arnold, 1987

why would anyone add a climb and bolt it like this? well....

Save yourself the trip to fontainebleu and get on this beauty! It would get another star if it wasn't for the weird ledge you crawl in on.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680490

Volume 1 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6450 routes on 479 crags - the complete work, including Volume 2, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2020

Volume 2 of the Climbing Guidebook Franken describes 6790 routes on 387 crags - the complete work, including Volume 1, offers information about more than 13,500 routes.

Author(s): Sebastian Schwertner

Date: 2021

Band 2 des Gesamtwerkes für den nördlichen Teil der fränkischen Schweiz - auf 584 Seiten werden 6500 Routen vorgestellt. Zusammen mit Band 1 ergeben das mehr als 1150 Seiten genaue Informationen zu den über 12.600 Routen des Nördliche Frankenjura ...

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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