The world's first UIAA 11 (8c+/ 9a) and today considered a benchmark for 9a.
The original route bolted by Milan Sykora traversed in from the right, but Güllich bolted a more direct start that consisted of crux dynamic move to a two-finger pocket.
The route is named after a French far-left terrorist group which was active between 1979 and 1987, murdering 12 people and injuring 26. Apparently the inspiration for the name came during training for the route (including mono campusing) as it appeared to Wolfgang that the intense training required was an act of terror against his fingers. It was also a fitting name for the direct start Wolfgang had bolted.
It took 11 days of efforts for Wolfgang to free the short (5 bolts / 15m) but powerful route, which he did using a 16-move sequence on September 14 1991. The route has seen about 20 repeats after the first ascent by Wolfgang Güllich †.
The fastest redpoint to date was by Alex Megos who sent the route in just 2 hours. He has repeated the route 4 more times since.
|Route setter: Milan Sykora|
|14 Sep 1991||First free ascent:
Wolfgang Güllich †|
first UIAA 11 route of the world