Crags
Map
Climbers
Forum
Photos
Logbook
Guidebooks
Help
Favorite 3
Downloads
Request editor permission
Discuss crag

Traumfels Mostly Sport climbing 32 routes in crag

32
UIAA
4+56-6+78-8+

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The moderate neighbour of the 'Hölle'. The name does not come by chance: Great routes, beautiful views and something for every taste. Slabs, pockets and a real chimney.

Access issues

The north-western neighbouring rock (48.094940, 9.070620) is no longer open for climbing.

Approach

Park at the Naturfreundehaus Donautal. Follow the hiking trails into direction of the 'Schaufels'. At (48.099091, 9.067853) head right und follow the descending forest track. Don't follow the hiking trail.

Traumfels - Approach - the important junction

Stay on the forest track until you reach the bottom of the crags walls. First come to the north-western neighbouring rock (48.094940, 9.070620). It is no longer open for climbing. A sign with a black X indicates that. Leave it behind and follow the trail to next rock at (48.094341, 9.071066).

15-20min

Where to stay

Ethic inherited from Donautal

Leave no trace

  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

Tags

Plan your Trip

Check Weather
Find Accommodation
Guidebooks

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
5- Nadelöhr Sport 15m, 4

FA: Pelger, Gernert & Schröder, 2003

2
7+ ★ Fiesta Mexikana Sport

FA: Pelger & Gernert, 2003

3
6+ ★ Los Amigos Sport 15m

FA: Fritz & Bohsch, 1983

4
7+ ★★ Sachen in Leichtigkeit Sport 25m

Start via the left arête to the right into the wall.

Note that the first and second bolt as listed in the topo of the Panico guide from 2015 are missing or the topo is simply wrong.

FA: Buttschardt & Mok, 1989

5
7- ★★ Herbstwind Sport 25m, 9

Brüchiger Einstieg danach sehr schön.

FA: Buttschardt & Mok, 1989

Hide
Legend
Edit
6
6+ ★★★ Rittlerkante Sport 25m, 6

Classic climb along the arête. At the 5th bolt head left.

FA: Arthur Oswald †

7
6+ ★★ Sitzpiesler Trad 25m

Between 'Rittlerkante' and 'Verschneidung'. Long run-out from the last sling to the lower-off anchor of 'Verschneidung'.

FA: Bodemer, 1998

8
4+ ★ Verschneidung Mixed trad 20m, 5
9
6+ ★★ Sport frei Sport

Startet links von dem Überhang und quert darüber leicht nach rechts (Umlenker rechts Michelutschi?)

10
6+ ★★ Michelutschi Sport 25m

Long traverse to the left. Shares the start with 'Mitte Links'. Head for the blue sling and the very last anchor on the left.

FA: Mailänder, 1984

11
7+ ★ Fehldiagnose Sport

FA: Matze Ruf, 1991

12
8+ Pooma Sport

Rechter Einstieg im Überhang

13
6+ ★★ Zimberline Sport

FA: Frenzl, 2000

14
5+ ★ Mitte Links Sport 25m, 3
15
7- ★★ Die Gelbe Sport 25m, 3

FA: Gernert & Mayer, 1985

16
6 ★ Schlechtwetterspaziergang Sport

FA: Aßfalg & Liebschner, 1989

17
6+ ★★★ Hans im Glück Mixed trad 20m, 2

Really rewarding route at pockets. Lots of natural pro (slings, tri-cams). Shares the first meters with 'Traumwand'.

FA: Fritz & Scharfenberger, 1984

18
6+ ★★★ Traumwand Mixed trad 25m, 2, 3

Starts at threads (black sling), followed by a short slab section (bolt). Then follow the obvious, most logical line along the flake to the right (2 slings). Then take a run-out (or improve pro) to the belay at the start of the chimney. Climb through the chimney (1 bolt) until a small roof (sling) then head left via a bolt slightly overhanging to the anchor.

FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1973

19
6+ ★★★ Traumlandschaft Trad 20m

Just before the belay of the second pitch of 'Traumwand' follow the thin crack straight upwards to the lower off of 'Traumwand'.

FA: Komander, 2006

20
7+ ★ Gnadenlos Sport

FA: Pelger & Münchberg, 1997

21
8 Platte Sport

FA: Jaumann, 1988

22
8 ★★ Chak Mool Sport

FA: Fritz & Scharfenberger, 1984

23
8+ ★★★ Tunnelsyndrom Sport

FA: Kies, 1986

24
8 ★★★ Bayernethik Sport

FA: Pelger & Lörcher, 1991

25
8 ★★★ Garten Des Satans Sport 6

FA: Fritz & Scharfenberger, 1984

26
8+ Open Air Sport

FA: Pelger & Nuber, 1990

27
8- ★ Rosenstrauchführe Sport 25m

FA: Arthur Oswald †

28
7 ★★ Bakita Bar Sport

Nach dem 6. Bohrhaken von der Rosenstrauchführe nach links queren und die Verschneidung voll hoch (3 weitere Haken) zum Umlenker (Einzelner Bohrhaken ohne Sauschwanz)

FA: Pelger & Gernert, 1998

29
8- ★ Overlaping Sport

FA: Matze Ruf, 2000

30
8- Dirty Harry Sport

FA: Nuber, 2000

31
7+ Wackeldackel Sport

FA: Nuber, 2000

32
8- Los, Wir Fahren Nach Poona! Sport

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Top editors by karma

See all contributors | Karma

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Donautal Kletterführer

Author(s): Georg Hermann, Ronald Nordmann

Date: 2020

ISBN: 978-3-95611-126-6

Buy
ⓘ

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Nearby Icons

8 ★★★ Bayernethik
8+ ★★★ Tunnelsyndrom

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Traumfels - Verschneidung and Sitzpiesler

Traumfels

Traumfels

Unknown on ★ Mitte Links 5+

Tue 25 Apr
Check out what is happening in Traumfels.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文