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Nordseite

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 16
  • Aka: Poetic Wall
  • Aka: North face
14

Seasonality

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Description

The routes from 'Stösserkante' to 'Daumen hoch' get sun after 18:00 in the summer.

Access issues inherited from Hausener Felsen

None

Approach

Pass the sector 'Idiotenüberhang' into direction of 'Fischerfels'. At the edge of the 'Erste Zinne' you will find the 'Stösserkante' which is the first route in the north face.

Ethic inherited from Donautal

Leave no trace

  • No camp fire and bivvy.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish.
  • No unnecessary noise.
  • Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.

History

View historical timeline

In 2017 the north side of the 'Erste Zinne' experienced a renessaince. Georg Hermann and Jakob Pelz added some new routes and improved the existing lines of Frank Enz. Among other things, this resulted in another route in the 10th UIAA grade of difficulty.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Face climbing from the most left part of the wall to the right. Crux between first and second bolt.

Set by Werner Hirschlinger, 2019

FFA: Walerij Pelz, 2 Sep 2019

FA: Klopsch, 1997

FA: Enz, 1997

Starts with face climbing at small crimps - keep slightly right of the first bolt. Then follow the big crack/dihedral until the lower off anchor. Big friends/cams and nuts to improve protection after the third bolt.

Set by Werner Hirschlinger, 2019

FFA: Jakob Pelz, 23 Aug 2019

Interesting overhanging pillar which branches off from "Lust zum Leben".

Set by W. Hirschlinger, 2019

FA: Walerij Pelz, 2 Sep 2019

Well protected route with the crux at the small overhung.

FA: Pelz, 2017

FA: Klopsch, 1997

FA: Frank Enz, 2007

Von der zweiten Plattform der Rampe nach rechts folgen. Unter dem Loch vorbei bis zur Verschneidung. Dann nach oben. Ab hier anhaltend schwierig bis zum Umlenker.

FFA: Georg Hermann, 30 Nov 2016

Direct start into 'Tränen der Freude'

FFA: Georg Hermann, 30 Nov 2016

FFA: Pelz, 2017

Der Start wirkt ein wenig hineingedrückt. Am besten den ersten Haken ignorieren und von der Plattform im unteren Loch aus starten. Dabei verpasst man nix und steigt gleich in die Vollen. D.h. die ersten drei Züge zum und über den dritten Haken sind die Crux. Danach dem Risssystem folgen und zum Schluss an der Kante bis zum Umlenker.

FFA: Jakob Pelz, 2017

FFA: Pelz, 2017

1 6+ 30m
2 4 20m

Classic route following the arete between the sectors 'Nordseite' and 'Idiotenüberhang'. The crux is the start of the route. Slightly overhanging and the good holds are polished. After the crux rock quality is better.

Don't leave gear in the route. It is better to walk down.

FA: Renz & Haug, 1957

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