A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
EPOS Fylis / Mikri Varassova
89 in Area
- 1.1. EPOS Fylis / ΕΠΟΣ Φυλής 28 in Crag
- 1.2. Smalls 4 in Unknown
- 1.3. Amfitheatro / Left 17 in Sector
- 1.4. Mikri Varasova / Μικρή Βαράσοβα 34 in Crag
- 1.5. Spilia Rizou 6 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. EPOS Fylis / Mikri Varassova 89 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 38.123035, 23.661769
summary
An all around area with three completelly different sectors
description
Intresting area, sunny on the winter.
EPOS is on the shade until midday on summer days.
approach
5 mins walk from the parking area
1.1. EPOS Fylis 28 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 38.123545, 23.661433
summary
Another Athenian crag for begginers and intermediates as well
description
EPOS is named by EPOS Fylis mountaineering club. It was created 2011-2012. It is continuation of Mikri Varasova, but the rock is different type.
access issues
Needs a private car to reach the crag.
approach
From Attiki Odos Exit #6, follow Fylis Avenue towards Fyli/Chasia (north/west). Follow the road for 500m until big roundabout. Take the third exit and continue on Fylis Avenue. 3,1 km after the roundabout you will see a golden-domed church on your right hand (Panagia Kanala) and a football pitch on your left. Take the right turn as soon as you pass the church opposite to bus stop 31st Fylis following signposts to "taverna - Ta Pitharia". 1,8km later, reach crossroad, turn right and take the left branch. Continue straigth ahead on narrow winding road for 1,6km till you reach the end of the asphalt. Turn right (by the green tank) on the dirt road for 100m. Park on the big clearing. The clearly visible path heading north will get you first to Mikri Varasova and after 200m to Epos.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Sarandapendaris | 6b+ | 30m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Penintaris | 6c+ | 30m | |||
| 3 | ★★ Parthena | 7a | 30m | |||
| 4 | ★★★ Armegedon | 6c | 30m, 12 | |||
| 5 | ★★ Arpages | 6c | 30m, 10 | |||
| 6 | ★★ Yenes | 7a | 30m, 10 | |||
| 7 | ★★ Korakia | 6b+ | 30m, 10 | |||
| 8 | ★★ Exafanizol | 6c | 30m, 12 | |||
| 9 | ★★ Kali Hronia | 6b+ | 25m, 9 | |||
| 10 | ★★★ Polyergaleio | 6b | 25m, 12 | |||
| 11 | ★★ Mavro Pipini | 6b | 20m, 10 | |||
| 12 | ★★ Gia Sena Moro Mou | 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||
| 13 | ★★ Saki Taki Manolaki | 6a | 30m, 11 | |||
| 14 |
★ Eisai Kai Poli Kamaki
Warning Rock: loose rocks on the positive gradient part of the route | 6a | 15m, 6 | |||
| 15 |
★★ Fraou
The last of the easy lines to get into the sun, on summer days. | 5c+ | 15m, 6 | |||
| 16 | ★★ Tou Hans | 6c | 25m, 9 | |||
| 17 | ★★ Floropitouras | 6b | 20m, 6 | |||
| 18 | ★★ Pentikiour | 6a+ | 20m, 6 | |||
| 19 | ★ Agapoula | 5c | 13m, 6 | |||
| 20 |
★ Halarouita
Warning Fixed Gear: Loose hangers Easiest of the crag | 5b | 14m, 9 | |||
| 21 | ★★ Tis Popis | 5b+ | 16m, 10 | |||
| 22 | ★ Salonikios | 5c | 22m, 11 | |||
| 23 | ★★ Panselinos | 5c | 21m, 12 | |||
| 24 |
★★ Iliovasilema
The crux is near the start on the vertical face, the rest is easy going. The ending is intresting. | 5c+ | 23m, 10 | |||
| 25 |
SBEAB / ΣΒΕΑΒ
Two last bolts and the anchors is the same with Pagoto | 5b | 20m, 8 | |||
| 26 | ★ Pagoto | 6a | 20m, 8 | |||
| 27 | ★★ Katsikisio Gala | 6a+ | 20m, 10 | |||
| 28 |
★★ Pergamondo
Dihedreal, Chimney. The last of the crag is a different line. It offers an other kind of climbing. Worths a visit if you are on the grade. | 5c | 20m, 9 | |||
1.2. Smalls 4 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 38.123193, 23.661326
description
These are two low grade routes after Pergamonto and before the"Left" sector
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Left | 8m, 3 | ||||
| 2 | Right | 8m, 3 | ||||
| 3 | Μαμά κοίτα | 4 | 8m, 4 | |||
| 4 | Μπαμπά κοίτα | 4 | 8m, 4 | |||
1.3. Amfitheatro 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 38.122937, 23.661401
description
In between Mikri Varasova and EPOS Fylis. Interesting routes for all levels.
descent notes
Short Info about the routes: http://www.routes.gr/Community/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2232
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sex kai via ferrata | 6c | 12m, 7 | |||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 | ★★ Svouras | 6b | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 3 | ★★ Kagiagio | 6c+ | 12m, 6 | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Proti | 6a+ | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 5 | Kolaouzos | 7b | 12m | |||||
| 6 | Project | |||||||
| 7 | ★ Mario Om | 5b | 10m, 5 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 8 | ★★ Agapi | 5c | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 9 | ★★ DJ | 6a | 11m, 5 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Kalimera
The Crux is in the beginning, after that the rock is pretty sharp. | 6b+ | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 11 |
Almyro Fystiki
Project | 11m | ||||||
| 12 | Ventouza | 7a | ||||||
| 13 | ★ Fryktoria | 6c | ||||||
| 14 | To prostimo | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
| 15 | I paravasi | 7a | 25m | |||||
| 16 | To trakarisma | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
| 17 | ★ To KTEO | 6b | 25m | |||||
1.4. Mikri Varasova 34 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 38.122534, 23.661942
summary
description
Mikri Varasova has two main sectors but there are also a few climbs and unfinished projects spread around the two main faces. The style of climbing is considerably different from one sector to the other. The left hand side of the crag is a slightly overhanging wall with short dynamic routes, pumpy moves on good holds and occasionally smaller pockets. The right hand side is a beautiful 30m clean vertical slab with small pockets and crimps requiring good balance, fingery start ups and a cool head.
access issues
None
approach
To reach Mikri Varasova exit Attiki Odos on Exit 6 (Ano Liosia - Fylis Ave) and 500m after the exit, reach fountain roundabout. Continue on the main road (opposite as you enter the roundabout) for about 3,5Km till you see a characteristic colorful church on your right hand. Pass the church and continue on the same road for another 500m until the main road split (point A on adjacent map). Turn right on this point (or keep on straight for Chasia Cave and Acharneis crags). Follow the road to the wide crossroad just after the terminal stop of bus A12 (point B on adjacent map). Turn right once (not twice as this will get you to the monastery of St. Kyprianos) and continue straight on narrow winding road for 1,6Km till you reach the end of the asphalt (point C on adjacent map). This is the point where the trail for the Cave of Panas begins. Either park here next to big green water tank or turn right and continue on bad dirt road for 200m to the parking of Mikri Varasova. The place is surrounded by beehives. The grey slab of the left sector is visible at 100m from the parking spot and can be reached by a clearly visible path (2min).
history
The crag of Mikri Varasova (Greek for "Little Varasova") took is name after the apparent resemblance of its rock (being sharp in places) to the rock of famous seaside climbing destination of Varasova in central-west Greece. Although in terms of scale it's only a miniature of the real Varasova, in terms of quality, variety and aesthetics the place holds many pleasant surprises to the visitor. It's not by accident that Mikri Varasova is considered by many as one of the best choices for mid grade climbing in Athens.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Ta Pei Mou Ta Hrei Mou
Set: D. Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 7b+ | 15m, 6 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Stalahtitis
Set: D. Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 7a | 15m, 8 | |||
| 3 |
Poza
Set: D. Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis | 7b | 15m, 6 | |||
| 4 |
★★★ Halara
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis | 6b+ | 15m, 5 | |||
| 5 |
★★ Stavrakas
Set: D.Titopoulos, S. Moraitinis & N. Voutiropoulos, 1999 | 6b | 15m, 5 | |||
| 6 |
★★ Adelaida
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c | 15m | |||
| 7 |
★★★ Dyo Filoi
Set: N. Voutiropoulos & P. Bailey, 1996 | 6c | 15m | |||
| 8 |
★★★ Treli Giagia
Set: N. Voutiropoulos & P. Bailey, 1996 | 6c+ | 15m | |||
| 9 |
★★ Shismi
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6a+ | 20m, 10 | |||
| 10 |
★★ Koftra
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6b | 20m | |||
| 11 |
★★ Zbou
Set: D.Titopoulos | 6c | 20m | |||
| 12 |
★ Me Prosohi
big crack climbing including a nice traverse Set: D.Titopoulos, 2003 | 5b | 20m | |||
| 13 |
★★ Xekolaei
Set: D.Titopoulos, 2003 | 6a+ | 20m, 7 | |||
| 14 |
★★ Protomagia
Set: D.Titopoulos, 2003 | 6a | 20m, 7 | |||
| 15 |
★ Maheri
Set: D.Titopoulos, 2003 | 5c+ | 20m, 6 | |||
| 16 |
Raba
Set: D.Titopoulos, 2003 | 4b | 20m | |||
| 17 |
★★ Agolo
Starts like Ramba and then goes up, left of Agrimi. Set: Yiannis Kagiaftakis & Vlachou Maria, 18 Jun 2020 | 6b | 25m | |||
| 18 |
Agrimi
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6a+ | 20m, 9 | |||
| 19 |
★ Travigmeni
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6a+ | 20m, 9 | |||
| 20 |
Avnanistan
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 7a+ | 20m, 9 | |||
| 21 |
★★ Iptameni Arkouda
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6b | 20m, 9 | |||
| 22 |
★★★ Himeia
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c | 20m, 10 | |||
| 23 |
★★ Akatharisti
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c | 20m, 10 | |||
| 24 |
★★ Psevdesthisi
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6b+ | 20m, 10 | |||
| 25 |
★★ Pino Kai Metho
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c | 20m, 9 | |||
| 26 | Kanti Kai Fige | 7c | 20m, 4 | |||
| 27 |
Diatasi
Warning Flora and Fauna: Bird nest Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c | 20m, 9 | |||
| 28 |
★★★ Parthena Kai Diavolos
Warning Flora and Fauna: Bird nest Set: N. Voutiropoulos & P. Bailey, 1997 | 6c+ | 20m, 9 | |||
| 29 |
★★★ Kokkini
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||
| 30 |
★ Onyx
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c+ | 20m, 10 | |||
| 31 |
★★ Diamberes
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6c | 20m, 8 | |||
| 32 |
★★ Boufos
Set: D.Stravogenis & S. Moutzouvis, 2001 | 6a+ | 20m, 8 | |||
| 33 |
★★ Ykiaouna
Set: Yiannis Kagiaftakis & Vlachou Maria, 23 Apr 2020 | 6a | 25m | |||
| 34 |
Pelargos
Set: Yiannis Kagiaftakis & Vlachou Maria, 1 Jul 2020 | 5c | 25m | |||
1.5. Spilia Rizou 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 38.122305, 23.662289
description
First cliff on the way to Mikri Varasova
https://www.eposfilis.gr/2015-09-13-16-53-27/spiliarizou.html
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ΥΨΙΠΕΤΗ | 7c+/8a | ||||
| 2 | ΒΡΥΧΩΓΑΤΑ | 7a | ||||
| 3 | ΑΣΤΕΡΩ | 7a | ||||
| 4 | ΚΑΙΣΑΡΑΣ | 7a | ||||
| 5 | ΜΑΥΡΙΣΜΕΝΗ | 6c | ||||
| 6 | ΔΑΚΤΥΛΟΣ | 7a+ | ||||
