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Irox

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Telendos

Ferry runs daily, every half hour, from the port at Myrties (1 Km s of Massouri) to Telendos. 2,50 € (2022 it is 3€) from 8am - 12 midnight. Fewer services operate in shoulder and off-season however. A boat also goes directly to the beach near Irox/Eros leaving at 10a and returning at 5p/1700. In shoulder season you need to arrange this with the boat operator and be ready to pay an extra 15-20€.

Approach

By foot from Telendos village (50-60 min): From Telendos pier, walk right, following signs to 'Irox'. When the paved road ends, continue on the trail to Paradise nudist beach. At the beach, take the steep trail uphill. Follow the coastal path across several small bays and cliffs. Where the trail is not obvious, look for cairns and blue paint marks. After passing a small goat corral, the trail slopes upwards. Where the path to 'Miltiadis' and St Constantine chapel splits left, continue straight across the hilltop. Pass the trails up to 'Eros' and 'Glaros' and take the steep path downhill to the leftmost routes of 'Irox'.

By boat (1 min): Ask the boat driver to drop you off at sector 'Irox'. From the boat drop-off, scramble up to the wall base.

Ethic inherited from Kalymnos

  • PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
  • Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
  • Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
  • Use established paths and close gates behind you.
  • Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).

History

History timeline chart

A very family friendly crag when approached by boat. On the flipside this resulted in a very unfortunate fatality seen by the deceased's children.

Routes

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Grade Route

Four short beginner/kids routes on the small slab left of the cave.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Short, but powerful and bouldery moves with some long reaches.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2008

FA: Beni Blaser, 2014

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

The obvious, hanging corner is gained by big flowstone holds and a wall with unique flakes and cracks.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Broccoli undercuts and sidepulls to a short, technical spot. Then a fun jughaul to the chains.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

A well protected crux on sharp orange rock in the first half. The remainer is easier but even sharper. So avoid if you have thin skin.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

A single tufa leads to a slab.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

A balancy, diagonal line on good quality, broccoli-coated rock. Very densely bolted.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Warning Flora and Fauna: Hornet nest

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Claude Idoux, 2015

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Sharp and unobvious final moves that require some creativity.

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Andy Hedgecock, 2012

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Andy Hedgecock, 2015

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Peter Keller & Urs Odermatt, 2007

Set: Falk Heinicke & Anett Riemer, 2007

Set: Falk Heinicke & Anett Riemer, 2007

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Aris Theodoropoulos and Katie Roussou

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9788898495207

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the rock climbing, and sport climbing at Kalymnos, covering over 4,200 routes ranging from F3a to F9a.

Author(s): Chris Craggs

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781873341384

A selective guidebook from Rockfax covering the rock climbing and sport climbing on the Aegean island of Kalymnos, describing over 2,800 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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