Routes in Meteora

V A1 or VI

The few existing sources say, it's an oldschool and hard to protect, crack/ chimney climb.

Wall left of "West Route".

Left in the west face step and groove (bush) to the top.

Easily the most photogenic route in Meteora, due to the step-across move.

P1, P2: 3/7 bolts. Can be linked together with 60m ropes. Slab climbing with a few steep sections.

P3: Thin slab climbing then a chimney and a water groove, belay on a ledge to the right. 1 bolt, good cam placements.

P4: Walk up to the first summit, beware of loose rock. Belay on top on the summit, not the rappel anchor on the wall. No bolts.

P5: The icing of the cake. Down-climb to the fixed rope, use it to lean across and clip the bolt, than do the step-across. Traverse left then follow the crack and face to the top. 7 bolts, takes small cams.

There's a rappel anchor across the summit plateau and a bit to the left. Two overhanging 45m rappels to the ground. Alternatively there's another to the right from which you can descent through "Spiralweg".

Left in the west side to the top.

In the valley side corner and right wall (6 bolts) to the top.

Start right of "Arachnophobie".

Right in the west side sloped wall, passing a ledge, to the top.

Wall right of "Northwest Corner" (15 bolts) to arete and to the top.

Pillar left of "West Ridge" (6 bolts) to the end of the crack and "West Ridge" to the top.

Left in the valley face corner crack and wall (6 bolts, 60m). At ledge traverse left to 2nd belay of "West Ridge".

Right of "Uplift" direct over the ridge (2 pitches, 6c 40m 12 bolts and 6c 35m 9 bolts) to "Uplift".

Easy to confuse with route Dr Faust, since there are bolts in route that are not in guide book. Route is mostly sport climbing with good protection on harder pitches and longer runouts on easier parts.

A popular direct line on excellent rock. The line of three rappels goes almost down the route Butterfly and you will see new bolts all the way down.

P1 6 bolts, P2 3 bolts, P3 2 bolts.

1st pitch 8 bolts, 2nd 9 bolts, 3rd 6 bolts, 4th 2 bolts

In middle south face crack groove and wall to little overhang (bolt). Left Crach groove to overhang (bolt). Overhang 82 bolts, crux) and crack leftwards to west arete (3 bolts) and to the top.

The main line. First bolt is VERY high.

Up the crack then right and up.

1st pitch 7qd, 2nd 2qd, 3rd 0qd, 4th 4qd, 5th 1qd

Approach

• Starting Point: Park your car at the coordinates (39.722960, 21.622752).

• Walking Directions:

  1. Walk downhill along the main road.
  2. Pass the camping site on your left and Tavern on your right.
  3. Continue on until you reach a crossroad.
  4. At the crossroad, turn right.
  5. Continue Walking, the road will go slightly uphill. Continue until you arrive at a small creek (39.720539, 21.618838).
  6. Follow the Creek towards the starting point of the route, located at coordinates (39.72157, 21.61920). There is a small pathway on the east side of the creek.

Bolds: 5, 4, 5, 5

Approach

Park your car at the coordinates (39.722960, 21.622752), then walk down the main road and the ridge will be visible on the right side.

The route starts at (39.722249, 21.621898).

About the route

There are a few options, the easiest route is if you follow the ridge. For a more challanging climbing you can start left of the ridge (crux in first pitch 5c) and then rejoin on the ridge.

In the upper part between the second and third pitch, there is a traverse that needs to be climbed using friction on the feet. There is one bolt available in the middle of traverse, which is sufficient, but it could be scary for some climbers (should not be a reason not to climb this route).

After the traverse, the path continues towards the anchor on the ridge, while the harder route goes to the right along a crack to the anchor point near the small trees.

In hot summer days it is best to climb the route late in the afternoon.