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Description

Historical Trad Climbing crag

Approach

This outcrop is located to the left of Majestic Slabs and is best reached from there. The outcrop starts with a very steep area of slabs and overhangs on the right, then fades out to scrappy rock on the left. The enormous slab on the right side of the cliff has potential for long, exceedingly steep, and poorly protected (or bolted) climbs of the highest standard.

Routes

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Grade Route

The climb starts on the extreme right of the crag, at the corner just before the large gully and to the right of a series of overhangs. Mantel on to the ledge and then climb the overhanging chimney. Move right to the slab and ascend the wall.

Start at the large vegetated crack. Climb easily up to the line of overhangs and use the wedged boulder to overcome these. Belay at the good pine tree. Step back in to the crack and continue up the increasingly vegetated groove to the top. Abseil to descend.

Start to the left of Rumpelstiltsken on top of the ridge. Take the first white rib, which leads obliquely to the right and up to a large scoop. Climb ump and in to the middle of the scoop until it is possible to take a belay in the trees. Lead off right from the belay stance up a well defined crack to a v-shaped slab. Belay on top of the slab or link together with the third pitch. Step left and move straight up to the groove leading to a well-defined crack. Layback up the crack until it is possible to start bridging for the final few feet of steep rock. Finish up the easier angled rocks above.

Start 10 feet right of the previous climb at the picnic stone. Use the left crack and follow the broken line just to the right of the slabs. Follow the grassy gully and then climb the natural line. Move right and up to the small ledge and belay in the right corner crack. From the belay move left and up the slab. Climb through the sharp little overhang and scramble to a tree belay.

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