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Description

For description there is a English language guide for Pol-e Khab

Approach

30 km outside of Tehran, through Karaj

Routes

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Grade Route

Bit tricky the first two or three draws. From onto the shelf and up top a pretty easy climb

Start off a small crack, on reachy moves up to a small overhang. Sloppy holds and sustained moves over it (cruxy). Slippery holds to the anchor.

FA:

Set 2007

Beautiful 20m long crack, up to a small rooflet on the left. Anchors on top of the rooflet

FA: Mohammad Davoudi, 1983

By the French Alpine Club, on the face right of the dihedral. Start of the small vertical holds on a minor cruxy slab

Set by Philip Pat, 2007

Tricky for the grade starting from the dihedral. Sustained climb getting harder as you go up. Traverse right to the rooflet, continuing on to the crack that opens up as you go up. Poor feet. To the chimney and another small overhang. Crack climb to the anchor.

FA:

Set by Mohammad Davoudi & Mohsen Noori, 1983

Route on the arete. Technical moves on very small balancy holds. Topp out on Parastooha anchor.

FA:

FA: 2010

Crag classic. A crack that could be climbed trad. Technical feet moves to the crescent looking crack. A strong bloudery move, layback to the top of the first pitch. The first pitch is popular at 7a/11b. Bolted crack that finishes with an 8m sharp layback crack that climbs beautifully.

A gorgeous crack on good quality rock. 10m up and then start traversing right along the rooflet. A small overhang crux to the anchor points. Could be climbed trad.

A great route. Start Right of the bolted rightwards arcing crack (Doostat daram) and climb the face traversing right past increasingly delicate moves on great rock.

Starts of Shirin but traverse lower than Shirin and end up on Shirin's anchor.

Starts with a bouldery problem and onto a slabby climb to the anchor

FA:

Starts off a small awkward crack on a slab. Climb 15m to reach a small overhang on the right. Traverse right to the larger rooflet, ending up the right of the rooflet (spicy). Face climb on friction holds to the anchor

Set 1994

Face climbing on very small balancy, reachy holds. Sounds inviting, doesn't it?

Vertical climb on small holds. Awkward and technical. Up the arete and onto the face. A skewed crack with decreasing footholds. Barndoor heaven!

FA:

Crag classic - Starts in the chimney onto an overhang. Technical climb the dihedral to a small rest. Move slightly to the right and climb up to the anchor.

FA:

Start steming on slabs, sustained moves to the top.

1 5.10b 25m
2 5.10a 25m

The first pitch (25m) is a good warm up in its own right and is popular. First pitch has a baby crux. Variety of holds to the anchor. The second pitch (25m) follow a crack to a ledge and is a bit sustained.

  1. 14 FB

  2. 9FB

Shares the same first two pitches as Sisakht. Technical face start and a slight traverse to the right.

FA:

Balancy face climb.

1 5.9 30m
2 5.10c 30m

Start of the end of Sisakht.

  1. 7 FB - easy climb

  2. 11 FB - variety of holds. Walk around the big rock and to your right to belay off to the middle of the wall and then to the ground. Requires double ropes for rapelling.

Balancy, reachy powerful moves. Starts on the slab and a big crux over the rooflet.

A popular slabby route. The name comes from the nature of the movements, stretching hands and feet as a lizard. It can be climbed either direct to the top at 6b+ (recommended) or by darting rock to the crack at about 2/3 height.

1 5.10a 25m
2 5.10c 25m
  1. One piton. Trad. Slightly awkward dihedral requiring fancy moves. Start next to the bush. Grab your small and med size cams

  2. 9 FB. Could be done trad. Great little pitch. Mid sized cams, nuts, and balancy moves. Two small rooflets, easy first, spicy 2nd

Face climb on slight overhang. Crimpy with small footholds. 9 FB

Some i*iot has bolted this! Do it Trad as it's safer and more fun! Start from the small crack up to the rooflet, continue on along the crack. Grab a set of small cams (up to red cam)

1 5.11a 25m
2 5.10d 25m
3 5.10c 25m

Take a long rope with you

  1. 8 FB. Climb on small crimps with two small cracks at the start and near the top. Easy for tall folks, not so easy for the vertically challenged. Good footwork and technique saves the day.

  2. 7 FB. Move slightly to the right. Face climb to a small rooflet with solid holds. Tricky traverse with pumpy moves.

  3. 9 FB. Face climb. Balancy on good friction holds.

Named after Hizomkar (climbing instructor). Face climb to the small rooflet on small crimps with tricky moves.

1 5.8 25m
2 5.9 25m
3 5.10b 25m
  1. no bolts. beautiful layback with nice jugs.

  2. one bolt under the overhang bit. Face climb on slight overhang to the right. Has one carrot bolt

  3. 2 bolts right at the top. Start from the left of the anchor up the crack. Practice your gear placement (set of cams, blue to yellow). Sit on the roof with your climbing buddy.

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