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Bilico

  • Grade context: FR
3
FR
9a+

Summary

A crag high up in Val Canali in the Italian Dolomites, not far from Primiero.

Routes

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Grade Route

The route follows an independent line of holds between Pappagorgia and In Bilico.

As Zeni describes it: "it starts with a dyno followed by a not all too difficult boulder problem that leads past the small roof at the base of Bilico. The slab is relatively easy but the crimps are never really good enough to rest properly. The crux is located in the middle, 4 really small crimps which require perfect footwork. The route doesn’t let up and at 3/4 height there’s another finger crux. Despite being short, there are nevertheless 52 moves. The bolting respects the other climbs at the crag, so it’s fairly runout and although it’s never dangerous, it’s not possible to aid AO your way up. The route is interesting also because, unlike the other climbs, when I bolted it I decided not to place an abseil chain at the top. Instead, you have to mantle over the lip, untie and walk easily back down to the base of the crag."

Set by Alessandro Zeni

FFA: Alessandro Zeni, 18 Nov 2018

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