Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sassolungo Southwest Face | |||||
{UIAA} 3+ | ★★ Hauptgipfel - Normalweg
Climbing mainly "on the short rope" with some pitches at the steepest places. Duration: 4-5 hours. Equipment: trad + crampons, if selecting the ice chute. | 1500m | |||
Sassolungo Southeast Face | |||||
{UIAA} 4- | Rampenführe
FA: G. Haupt, 1907 | 1000m, 17 | |||
Sassolungo Southeast Face Cobra e Guglia Cristina | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★ Via Giuani da Iman
Set: M. Bernardi, 2010 | 93m, 4 | |||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★ Via Spigolo Sud
1
4
25m
2
4+
28m
Climb in via 'Via Giuani da Iman' Set: M. Bernardi, 2010 | 53m, 2 | |||
Sassolungo Southeast Face L Parëí | |||||
4c | ★ Enrico | 18m, 7 | |||
4a | Mauro | 18m, 8 | |||
4a | Elisabeth | 20m, 9 | |||
4c | Ingrid | 20m, 8 | |||
6a | Christian | 25m, 10 | |||
5a | Franz | 22m, 8 | |||
6a+ | Edelweiss | 25m, 12 | |||
5c | Plaisir | 25m, 10 | |||
6a+ | Cristalli | 25m, 10 | |||
7a | Megalodon | 25m, 11 | |||
6b+ | Dolomieu | 25m, 11 | |||
6c | Utia | 25m, 12 | |||
6b | La curta | 20m, 8 | |||
7b | Piazen | 30m, 12 | |||
7b | Saslonch | 30m, 13 | |||
7a+ | Florian | 30m, 14 | |||
Sassolungo Southeast Face Ciampanil Dla Utia | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | Via Roman
FA: K. Unterkircher & H. Moroder, 2003 | 180m, 7 | |||
Sassolungo Southeast Face Torre Malik | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | Via Sara
FA: H. Comploj & F. Malik, 2003 | 250m, 10 | |||
Sassolungo Southeast Face Langkofeleck | |||||
{UIAA} 4 | Via Dla condles
FA: M. Bernardi & L. Runggaldier, 2010 | 300m, 9 | |||
{UIAA} 4 | Via De Lorenzi
FA: G. De Lorenzi & P. Saccardo, 1942 | 340m, 9 | |||
Sassolungo Northeast Face | |||||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★★ Pichl-Route
Longest and most appealing route in the Dolomites of the Val Gardena. It is difficult to find the right directions. After the long ascent a long descent must be taken into account. FA: R. Pichl & R. Weizer, 1918 | 1000m, 27 | |||
Sassolungo Northeast Face Weißer Pfeiler | |||||
{UIAA} 5 | ★★★ Via Cipriani
1
5
50m
2
5
45m
3
4
40m
4
4
40m
5
3+
40m
6
5-
40m
7
4-
40m
From far away, you can spot the start of route by finding: a) the circular black hole in the wall then b) up to the right, another black mark on the wall then c) down to the right, the starting boulder with the permanent snowfield to the right of the boulder. At the base of the cliff, above the boulder is the start of the route (1 piton with fixed cord). If you start from the ground, P1 is approx. 55m. Otherwise, scramble to the top of the boulder (recommended so that your gear doesn't get wet in the afternoon snowmelt)
For pitches 6 & 7 a single rope is recommended to avoid the rope getting stuck. Be very careful, there are lots of horns/features to trap your rope! FA: E. Cipriani & G.Vidali, 1991 | 300m, 7, 20 | |||
Sassolungo Northeast Face Paolina Pfeiler | |||||
{UIAA} 6- | Via L'ultimo dei Balkani
FA: M. Furlani & F. Bertoni, 1992 | 620m, 16 | |||
Cinque Dita Il Dito dI Dio | |||||
{UIAA} 6- | ★★ Via Paravis
A good, honest "sport route" in the dolomites. Fun climbing at the grade, very consistent 5a/b climbing with occasional tricky moves. Pretty runout at times, bolts are more "anti-death" than "anti-falling". Can be supplemented with .5-3 cams and some nuts. Be careful on the white rock! Plenty of crumble struggling to free itself and try out gravity for style. -more info to come-
Descent: from the final belay, abseil 10m to the ridgeline. Scramble across (belay recommended) to the col of the pollice, and descend via the "Via Normale della Pollice". Alternative descent: abseiling the route is possible, 2x 60m ropes recommended. To cross traverse pitch (p4), abseil from the top of p7 to make pendulum easier. Just go down FA: Mauro Bernardi, 2014 | 200m, 8 | |||
Cinque Dita Pollice | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★★ Versante Nord
Discesa: dalla cima scendere a sinistra in un canale (sud, II) e attraverso una lastra di rocce per ca. 30 m (alcuni ganci) fino al primo gancio fissato con cemento. Calarsi due volte per 25 m fino alla Forcella del Pollice e da qui proseguire sul SAT n° 104, 1.30 ore. | 250m, 8 | |||
Cinque Dita Ostwand | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | ★★ Kiene-Riss | 320m, 10 | |||
Cinque Dita Il medio | |||||
{UIAA} 4 | ★ Via Normale
Via Normale alla cima più elevata delle Cinque Dita. Spesso II/III, soste cementate, alcuni cordoni in via. FA: 1891 | 390m, 11 | |||
Punta Grohmann Südwand | |||||
{UIAA} 4 | Dibona
FA: A. Dibona, L. Rizzi, G. Mayer & M. Mayer | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Harrer/Wallenfels
1
4
45m
2
4
25m
3
4
35m
4
4+
45m
5
4
40m
6
4+
25m
7
4
35m
8
4+
50m
9
5
30m
10
4+
40m
11
5
40m
12
4
40m
13
4
50m
14
3
30m
15
2
50m
16
3
45m
FA: H. Harrer & K. Walenfels, 1936 | 630m, 16 | |||
6+ | ★★ Guglia della liberta
FA: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Franz Heiß, 2005 | 400m | |||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Via Dimai
1
3
30m
2
3
45m
3
3
30m
4
3
30m
5
3+
40m
6
4-
20m
7
4
45m
8
4
40m
9
4
20m
10
3+
45m
11
4-
50m
12
2
45m
13
3+
45m
FA: A. Dimai, J. Summermatter, R. v. Eötvös & I. v. Eötvös, 1908 | 490m | |||
Punta Grohmann Ostwand | |||||
{UIAA} 3+ | Bernard
FA: L. Bernard & G. Bernard, 1890 | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Preußkamin
FA: P. Preuß & W. Schmidkunz, 1911 | ||||
{UIAA} 7- | Glück
FA: F. Glück, B. Rezzara, G. Rezzara & M. Rezzara, 1934 | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | Rabenser
FA: I. Rabenser; S. Comploi, 1994 | ||||
{UIAA} 4- | Enzensberger
FA: J. Enzensberger & L. Chelminski, 1895 | ||||
Innerkoflerturm | |||||
{UIAA} 3 | Bernard
FA: L. Bernard, 1888 | ||||
{UIAA} 6+ A3 | Gran Diedro
FA: G. Loss, E. Bonvecchio & R. Stefani, 1966 | ||||
{UIAA} 6 | Prinoth
FA: F. Prinoth & N. Prinoth | ||||
{UIAA} 7- | Via del Calice
1
4
30m
2
4+
30m
3
6+
30m
4
6-
40m
5
5+
40m
6
5+
40m
7
4
40m
8
5
15m
9
7-
35m
10
6-
30m
11
4+
40m
12
7-
12m
13
4+
30m
14
3
50m
FA: G. Maffei & G. Stenghel, 1977 | 460m | |||
{UIAA} 5+ | Rizzikamin
1
5
40m
2
4
45m
3
4
30m
4
5+
50m
5
4+
20m
6
4
35m
7
4+
25m
8
5
45m
9
5
30m
10
5
25m
11
4+
50m
12
4
50m
FA: L. Rizzi, G. Mayer, M. Mayer & G. Davarda, 1908 | 450m | |||
{UIAA} 6+ A3 | Hasse/Schrott
FA: D. Hasse & S. Schrott, 1959 | ||||
{UIAA} 6 A2 | Loss
FA: G. Loss & E. Bonvecchio, 1966 | ||||
{UIAA} 4 | ★★ Dibona
1
4-
40m
2
4
20m
3
4
30m
4
4-
26m
5
4-
40m
6
4-
45m
7
4
25m
8
3+
25m
9
4
40m
10
3+
45m
11
3
30m
FA: A. Dibona, L. rizzi, M. Mayer & G. Mayer, 1910 | 370m | |||
{UIAA} 3+ | Jahn
FA: G. Jahn, 1918 | ||||
{UIAA} 3 | Innerkofler
FA: M. Innerkofler, 1880 | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Omodeo/Panchieri
FA: P. Omodeo & F. Panchieri, 1941 | ||||
{UIAA} 3- | Jahn/Merlet
FA: G. Jahn & E. Merlet, 1917 | ||||
{UIAA} 3 | Eckpfeiler-W-Grat
FA: W. v. Frerichs & O. v. Haselberg, 1910 | ||||
{UIAA} 5 | Einsame Odyssee
FA: R. Goedeke, 1994 | ||||
Zahnkofel Ostwand | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | Delago-Führe | 400m, 11 | |||
5+ | ★ Südost Kante
1
3
40m
2
5+
25m
3
4+
35m
4
5+
40m
5
3+
25m
6
5+
35m
7
4
40m
8
4
50m
Stände teilweise an Schlaghaken, teilweise an Schlingen, Zwischenstand in SL 5 und der letzten möglich, um Seilreibung zu vermeiden. Manche SL zwingend und schwer abzusichern. Ein Satz Keile, Cams 0,3 - 2 und Schlingen empfehlenswert. Wenige Sanduhren und zwei Zwischenhaken zur Orientierung vorhanden. Abstieg: Nach dem letzten Standplatz dem Grat ca 40m bis zur prominenten Scharte folgen. Dort befindet sich auf der Nordostseite eine Abseilstelle. 40 m abseilen und dem Grasband Richtung Norden/Zahnkofelscharte für ca 300m folgen. Dort befindet sich die letzte Abseilstelle (50m) zur Zahnkofelscharte. Nun die Rinne hinab zum Einstieg | 290m, 8 | |||
Zahnkofel Anticima | |||||
{UIAA} 4+ | via Messner
1
3+
33m
2
4+
26m
3
4
45m
4
4-
34m
5
4+
32m
6
4-
35m
7
4-
23m
8
4
26m
FA: Reinhold Messner & Dietmar Oswald, 1976 | 250m, 8 | |||
Città dei Sassi Sasso "Piccolo Cervin" | |||||
6b | ★ Schnizler | 10m, 3 | |||
5c+ | 5 Minuti - Lodecenter | 11m, 4 | |||
5a | Lassy | 10m, 4 | |||
5b | ★ Catenaccia | 10m, 3 | |||
5a | Erico | 10m, 4 | |||
5a | ★★ Fiore
Long and with a good view. | 18m, 8 | |||
5a | ★★ Poline | 20m, 9 | |||
Città dei Sassi Sasso Gabriel Climbing | |||||
6a+ | ★ Catenaccia | ||||
6c | Boulder micidiale | ||||
6b | ★★ Ladins | ||||
4 | ★★ Per Mario | 13m, 6 | |||
5b | ★ L'ho Giá Visto | 15m, 6 | |||
6b | ★★ Cavolo | ||||
5c+ | ★★ Segaiolo | ||||
6b+ | Sensual Finger | ||||
7b | Nenax | ||||
7a+ | Max | ||||
6c | Pianeta Terra | ||||
6b+ | Cibele | ||||
6a+ | San Ciok | ||||
6b | ★★ La Rambla | 15m | |||
4a | ★★ Doi Pas | 12m | |||
5a | ★★ Salamandra | 11m | |||
6b | ★ Osso duro | 10m | |||
6a | ★★ Il vizio | 10m | |||
6b | L'aldilà | 9m | |||
6a | Saetta | 7m | |||
6b | Alta Tensione | 9m | |||
7b | Tre spit | 12m | |||
7a+ | Bobis | 14m | |||
7a | ★★★ Mercedes | 14m | |||
6b+ | Audi | 15m | |||
6a+ | N.N. | 17m | |||
6b | Ibiza | 18m | |||
5c | ★★ Altea | 18m | |||
5c | ★ Bonny | 19m | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Tizi | 19m | |||
6a | Love | 17m | |||
6a+ | Jack | 17m | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Prinoth | 16m | |||
6b | Visitors | 19m | |||
5c | Offspring | 17m | |||
6a+ | ★★ Sex simbol | 16m |