A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Valle Pora
47 in Area
- 1.1. Rocce dell'Orera 38 in Crag
- 1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo 9 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Valle Pora 47 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.175346, 8.323345
1.1. Rocce dell'Orera 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.172652, 8.318751
description
Limestone with many holes and few crystals. View onto Finalborgo, east side of Valle Aquila, and Rocca di Petri.
After climbing, you may walk 10-15min to south-west to "Bar Osteria La Rosa dei Venti" (directly next to "Chiesa di San Martino") and enjoy a drink on the sunny terrace with wide view across the bay housing Pietra Ligure, Loano, Albenga etc.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Not yet locatedIf you know where these routes are located, please resequence accordingly and ultimately remove this annotation. | ||||||||
| 2 |
Bosco
Same chain as Cielo | 4b | 13m | |||||
| 3 |
Fuoco
It is better to avoid linkup due to problems of attrition of the rope | 6a | 32m, 2 | |||||
Settore destroAs of 2008, several bolts were not fixed but slightly moving. As of 2022, many old bolts have been cut and new, solid/fixed bolts placed. | ||||||||
| 5 |
★★ L'Apprendista
FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 3c | 7m, 5 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Moro
FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 3c | 7m, 7 | |||||
| 7 | ★★ Traunaelaltra | 4a | 7 | |||||
| 8 |
★ Luna diretta
The first 2 bolts are loose and the plates have been removed, hence only 3 (same as in 'Luna'). | 6a | 15m, 3 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Luna
FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 5a | 15m, 7 | |||||
| 10 |
★★★ Cobrecesi
FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 5a | 17m, 8 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Pedro
FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 5c | 25m, 2 | |||||
| 12 |
★★★ Chiacchia
SL 1 has 3 bolts, SL 2 8. Better abseil in 2 steps due to strong rope friction. FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 4c | 30m, 2, 11 | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Sono Gino
SL 1 has 7 bolts, 4/2022 no second SL visible (no hooks but vegetation) and also not in guide book "Finale Climbing" by Marco Tomassini of 5/2017 while it is mentioned in "Finale 007" by Andrea Gallo of 3/2008 — was 2nd SL discontinued? FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 4a | 40m, 2 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Camalli
FA: F. Balbi, G. Prucca & S. Secondo, 2001 | 4a | 20m, 6 | |||||
| 15 |
Nonna manin
SL1 6a 20m, SL2 5c 20m, SL3 6a 15m | 6a | 55m, 3 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Maddalena
Warning Fixed Gear: Old and dangerous hooks! | 5c | ||||||
| 17 |
★ Stringile forte
FFA: R. Minuto & M. Rebagliati, 1992 | 6b | 15m | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Stringile piano
FFA: R. Minuto & M. Rebagliati, 1992 | 6a | 15m | |||||
| 19 |
★★★ Fuorivia
Warning Fixed Gear: Old bolts FA: 1990 | 6a | 15m | |||||
| 20 |
Diedro Delle Situazioni Differenti
Warning Fixed Gear: Old and dangerous bolts! Don't climb! FFA: F. Boetto, G. Grappiolo & N. Ivaldo | 5c | 70m | |||||
| 21 |
★★★ I diedri obliqui
FFA: G. Calcagno & L. Calcagno, 1974 | 5b | 70m | |||||
| 22 |
Via degli urlatori
Warning Fixed Gear: Old and dangerous hooks! FFA: G. Fornaro, G. Gregoretti & G. Hualinetti, 1982 | 6a | 10m | |||||
Settore sinistro | ||||||||
| 24 | ★★★ Diedro del bandito | 5a | 17m | |||||
| 25 | Diedro di rocco | 4b | 13m | |||||
| 26 | ★★ Silvano | 6a | 13m | |||||
| 27 | ★★★ Il carbonaio | 5c | 19m | |||||
| 28 | ★ Nuvole | 4a | 9m | |||||
| 29 |
Unknown 2
According to "Finale 007" by Andrea Gallo of 3/2008, lower off right of & at same height as the lower end of 'Cicino'. | 5c | 10m | |||||
| 30 |
★★★ Cicino
FFA: G. Calcagno & L. Calcagno, 1974 | 6a | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Variante Cicino
Leads to the second pitch of Cicino. | 4a | 8m | |||||
| 32 | Cielo | 5a | 17m | |||||
| 33 | ★★★ L'angolo nel cielo | 6a | 33m, 12 | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Saluti da Ausserberg
The grade is given by the roof at the beginning. A couple bolts after the roof, the root merges with the 6a next to it, 'L'angolo nel cielo'. | 7a | 35m | |||||
| 35 | ★★ I segni del tempo | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
| 36 | ★★ Razza Bastarda | 4c | 46m, 3 | |||||
| 37 | ★★ Donne, crave oche | 6a | 20m | |||||
| 38 | ★★ Fanni e Desva | 5b | 30m, 2 | |||||
| 39 |
★★ Zanzibar
It is possible to linkup the 2 pitches | 5b | 34m, 2 | |||||
| 40 | ★ Trocadero | 5b | 15m | |||||
| 41 | Durbega | 6a | 16m | |||||
1.2. Paretina di Finalborgo 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 44.177181, 8.323771
summary
Ein schönes Felsmassiv mit besonders kompaktem Fels, welches sich deutlich von den anderen Felsen bei Finale unterscheidet. In den Wintermonaten liegt die Wand zwischen 9 und 14 Uhr in der Sonne.
description
Die Ausrichtung der Wand ist nach Südwesten.
approach
Parkplatz bei Finalborgo. (44.1757397, 8.3255054) Durch das Stadttor hindurch und links hoch zum Forte San Giovanni gehen. Fast oben, bei der dritt letzten Kurve, über die kleine Mauer steigen und dem Weg bis zum Sektor nach unten folgen.
history
Im Jahr 2010 wurden der Sektor saniert und mit drei neuen Routen ergänzt. Die Gemeinde Finale Ligure finazierte das gesamte Material. M. Tomassini und D. Canale kümmerten sich massgeblich um die Sanierung.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Ich habe einen Bandwurm
Leichter Einstiegssockel, dann senkrechte und technisch schwierige Ausdauerkletterei. In der mitte eine knifflige Passage. | 6a | 20m | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Tira dritto furbacchione
Leichter Einstiegssockel, dann trotz guter Griffe viel Ausdauerkraft und Technik nötig. | 6b | 20m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Cessulè stu Casinu
Schräges Felsband, heikle und leicht geneigte Platte, senkrechte Wandkletterei mit guten Griffen. | 6a | 20m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Il mago di word
Schräges Felsband, dann technisch schwierige Platte mit viel Balance-und Bewegungsgefühl. | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 5 | ★★ Il ragazzo con l'orecchino da pirla | 6a+ | 21m | |||
| 6 | ★★ Il labirinto | 6a | 21m | |||
| 7 | ★★★ Sgrillettami | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 8 | ★ Decimino | 5b | 12m | |||
| 9 | ★★ Medcamalia | 6b+ | 20m | |||
