Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
8 |
★★★ Mescalito
- with
Steffi
1
6+
25m
2
7-
30m
3
8
25m
4
6+
25m
5
4
20m
6
7
30m
7
7+
30m
8
6+
20m
9
4+
15m
10
6-
45m
| 270m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 2nd Sep 2021 | ||||
Pretty sustained and challenging route. Very exposed climbing above Arco. Awesome indeed.
|
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8 |
★★★ Mescalito
- with
Klara R
| 270m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
Slipped out of a very polished sidepull/undercling in pitch 3, which is hard at the start with very polished hand- and footholds. Rock quality in the first pitch and first half of the second pitch is not so amazing, but then it gets better. Favorite pitch definitely was pitch 7 with a nice overhang with jugs
|
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8 |
★★★ Mescalito
- with
Fabian Michel
| 270m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
7 |
★★ Tyskyewic
1
5+
35m
2
5+
45m
3
5+
25m
4
6c
35m
5
6+
25m
6
7-
35m
7
7
35m
| 240m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Thu 3rd May 2018 | ||||
Sadly polished, but premium route.
|
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7 | ★★★ Katia Monte - with Till, Victor | 400m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Mar 2022 | ||||
6a |
★★ Primi Sogni
1
3c
50m
2
4a
50m
3
5c
30m
4
5c
20m
5
6a
25m
| 180m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | ||||
After realizing Mescalito was too hard for us, decided to run through this short and easy multipitch on the same day. Very good bolted, there is only one runout in the 3rd pitch, but there was a nut left to help us. Nevermind the first two pitches, they are boring, but definitely worth for the three above. Approach: pass through the first part of the via ferrata.
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Zanzara - with Martin Busch | 300m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Oct 2012 | ||||
The big dream is true now. All the years i had too much respect to try it, but now it's done. hard endurance fight!300Meter: 6a,6b+,7a+,6c+,7a,6b,6a,4a,6b+,6b,6b+,6a
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Zanzara | 300m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | Thu 18th May 2023 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Mescalito - with Woidl | 270m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Sep 1995 | ||||
Wechselführung. Alles onsight, Vor- u Nachstieg.
|
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8 Hard | ★★★ Mescalito | 270m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
6a | Via Brunello Somadossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Mon 9th Sep 2019 | ||||
6a | Via Brunello Somadossi (Somadossi) | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Sat 23rd Sep 2000 | |||||
nur 1.SL
|
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6a | Gobbi-Seiwald (Gobbi-Seiwand) | 90m | Valle del Sarca | Sat 23rd Sep 2000 | |||||
6a | Il Caprone Beato (Il caporone Beato) | 80m | Valle del Sarca | Fri 22nd Sep 2000 | |||||
6a |
★★ Primi Sogni
1
3
50m
2
5b
50m
3
6a
30m
4
6a
20m
5
6a
25m
| 180m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Fri 16th Sep 2011 | ||||
200m of fun, super polished limestone made the feet scary and lots of loose blocks, got us to the summit though!
|
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5c |
★★ Cinque stagioni
- with
Helga
1
5c
180m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 180m | Valle del Sarca | Fri 30th Aug 2013 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Andreas | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Wed 4th Sep 2019 | ||||
Completely bolted, some bolts are loose!
|
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5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Sat 1st Jul 2017 | |||||
5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 15th Aug 2018 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Tim Vögtlin | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
6a 5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni (Cinque Stagoni) - with Torsten Schierz, Annegret Hantke | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 29th May 2007 | |||||
5c ~6a | ★★ Cinque stagioni | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Fri 7th Apr 2023 | ||||
In the guidebook, this is 5c(A0) and involves pulling on a rope during the crux pitch. The free grade is not given in my copy. In my opinion it is at minimum 6a, more realistic 6a+.
|
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5c |
★ Aspettando Martino
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Wed 21st Jun 2023 | ||||
Lead every pitch. The top three pitches are excellent, however they are reasonably polished, especially the 4th classic pitch. Gets pretty exposed!
Regarding the descent, more information should be available. We ended up doing numerous pitches along the way. I would recommend staying roped up for this and using numerous slings for the trees that are solid along the way, further along this traverse there are bolts, but they are infrequent until near the end where you meet the via ferrata. The descent definitely requires care. Trad gear is not required.
|
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5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Sep 2023 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 2nd Apr 2024 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Katia Monte - with noah | 400m | Valle del Sarca | Fri 19th May 2023 | |||||
SL 7 von l‘incompiuta geklettert
|
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6b | ★ Cupido | 18m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 27th Sep 2022 | ||||
Extremely polished
|
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5c |
★★ Cinque stagioni
- with
Stefania Boggio
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 180m | Valle del Sarca | Sat 25th Feb 2023 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
9b | One Slap | 18m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 13th Nov 2017 | |||||
9b | Queen Line | 20m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 18th Apr 2017 | |||||
9b | Queen Line | 20m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 26th Feb 2019 | |||||
9b | One Slap | 18m | Valle del Sarca | Wed 22nd Nov 2017 | |||||
9a+ | One Punch | 18m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 13th Nov 2017 | |||||
9a+ | One Punch | 18m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 30th Apr 2017 | |||||
9a | Ci Sta | 2 | Valle del Sarca | Tue 14th Nov 2017 | |||||
7b+ | ★★ 50er Fit Check | 150m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Fri 15th Oct 2021 | ||||
7a | La Donna Cannone | 15m | Valle del Sarca | Sat 19th Aug 2006 | |||||
6c | Cactus | 15m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Sep 2022 | ||||
6a | ★★ Primi Sogni - with Volker | 180m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | Tue 2nd May 2023 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Josef | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
5c |
★ Aspettando Martino
- with
Philipp Siegmund
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 180m | Valle del Sarca | Thu 25th May 2023 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Zanzara | 300m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 18th May 2023 | ||||
7a+ |
★★★ Zanzara
- with
marco
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 300m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Feb 2024 | ||||
Pitches 1-6
|
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8 | ★★★ Mescalito | 270m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
7+ | ★★ Tyskyewic | 220m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
6b+ | ★★★ White Crack | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
6b 7 | ★★★ Katia Monte | 400m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Oct 2021 | ||||
6+ 7- | ★ Barbara | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Average | Thu 15th Aug 2019 | ||||
7- | ★ Barbara - with R | 300m | Valle del Sarca | 2002 | |||||
7- | ★ Barbara | 300m | Valle del Sarca | 1991 | |||||
6a | ★★ Renata Rossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Oct 2005 | ||||
Super climb, must have own gear, bolts are scarce.
|
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6a | ★★ Renata Rossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
6a | ★★ Renata Rossi - with R | 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | 2001 | ||||
6a | ★★ Renata Rossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ Renata Rossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 24th Oct 2021 | ||||
6a ~6a+ | Via Brunello Somadossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 5th May 2014 | |||||
6 7- | ★ Barbara - with Eva Farkas | 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Fri 26th Apr 2013 | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ White Crack | 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Sep 1997 | ||||
7a+ | Styria | 200m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
7a |
Totem e tabù
1
5a
40m
2
6b
20m
3
6a+
15m
4
6c+
10m
5
7a
20m
6
6b
20m
7
6c
30m
8
4a
35m
| 190m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | |||||
7a | ★★ Ricce E Capricci | 150m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
7a | Passi Falsi | 240m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
7a | ★★ Ricce E Capricci | 150m | Valle del Sarca | Wed 2nd Mar 2022 | |||||
7a | Totem e tabù | 190m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | Wed 2nd Mar 2022 | |||||
7a | ★★ Ricce E Capricci | 150m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 27th Feb 2022 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Peter Korman | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Tue 16th Sep 2014 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Wed 28th Aug 2019 | ||||
quite used holds in the lower pitches. gets better till the top.
|
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5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th Jun 2021 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 7th Nov 2021 | |||||
6a 5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Sat 6th Jun 2015 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Jun 2022 | ||||
There were two bolts which need replacement. One came out like 2cm when pulled.
|
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5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with invalidmagic (josh) | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Jun 2022 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Yannick Müller | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | ||||
Ganz schön abgespeckt und bei uns viel Wartezeit, da viele Seilschaften unterwegs waren. Lieber früher morgens gehen, dann hat man die Route für sich. Insgesamt aber ganz schön um ins Mehrseillängenklettern zu starten.
|
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5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Theresa | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 3rd Oct 2022 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Hannah | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 27th Oct 2022 | ||||
Der Weg vom letzten Standplatz bis zum Klettersteig, über den der Ausstieg/Abstieg erfolgt, ist in einigen Teilen ziemlich ausgesetzt. Man sollte ohne Sicherung sicher auf schmalen, steinigen Pfaden gehen können. Der erste Teil dieses Weges führt über eine brüchige schmale Rampe hinauf. Stürzen sollte man aufgrund der Absturzgefahr den Fels/Hang hinunter auf dem gesamten Weg bis zum Klettersteig (ca. 5-10 Minuten) nicht.
|
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5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Fri 8th Jun 2018 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Thu 12th Sep 2019 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with ..L!$A.., Tom | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Thu 25th May 2023 | |||||
6a | ★★ Primi Sogni - with pj, chiara | 180m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jun 2021 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Zanzara | 300m, 10 | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Oct 2012 | ||||
WOW what a fight. Such a great climbing route and such a endurance test for me!
|
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5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Sun 21st Apr 2019 | |||||
5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2023 | ||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino - with Philipp Siegmund, Tom | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Thu 25th May 2023 | |||||
7a |
Totem e tabù
1
6a
50m
2
6b
20m
3
6a+
15m
4
6c+
10m
5
7a
20m
| 120m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | Wed 25th Aug 2021 | |||||
Erste SL nicht gefunden, alternativer Einstieg war so schlecht, wie ich selten geklettert bin, ich Gärtner 🤪
Weitere SL ziemlich hart, 7a SL war die beste, passendste und spannendste
|
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8 |
★★★ Mescalito
1
6+
25m
2
7+
30m
3
8
25m
4
| 80m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Tue 20th Oct 2020 | ||||
6a, 6a, 5c - the first pitches as written in the guide book. So we planned to climb so. It became clear that it is way harder, so decided to rappel from the 3rd anchor.
|
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7a |
★★★ l'Incompiuta
1
6b+
40m
2
7a
35m
3
6a
30m
4
6a
55m
5
6a
25m
6
6a
35m
7
6a
35m
8
6b
35m
9
5b
30m
10
6a
25m
| 350m, 9 | Valle del Sarca | Sat 25th Feb 2023 | |||||
6c | Cactus | 15m | Valle del Sarca | Don't Bother | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
7+ | ★★ Tyskyewic - with Helga | 220m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 1st Sep 2014 | |||||
Wonderful and interesting route, good protection of the difficult parts, Cam 0.75-3 and Stoppers for the easy pitches.
|
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6b+ Hard | ★★★ White Crack | 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 26th Nov 2023 | ||||
6b | ★ Cupido | 18m | Valle del Sarca | Crap | Sun 2nd Oct 2022 | ||||
6a | Via Brunello Somadossi | 300m | Valle del Sarca | Mon 23rd Jan 2023 | |||||
5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 26th Jul 2020 | ||||
Multipitch 6L 180m 5c (5a obbl.)
|
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5c | ★ Aspettando Martino | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Thu 21st Apr 2022 | |||||
5c | ★★ Cinque stagioni - with Tabitha Knoor | 180m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2022 | ||||
7- |
★ Barbara
- with
gistl
1
2
3
4
5
6
| 300m | Valle del Sarca | ★ Good | Sat 18th Nov 2023 | ||||
6+ 6+ A1 | Via del Bepi - with Alba | 180m | Valle del Sarca | Wed 30th Sep 2020 | |||||
7b | Sotto Vuoto | 130m, 11 | Valle del Sarca | Mon 22nd May 2023 |