| Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Placconata | |||||
| {UIAA} 5- | ★★ Il sole che solleva | 140m, 6, 8 | |||
| Sud | |||||
| {UIAA} 7- | ★★ Via Katl
1
6-
25m
2
6
30m
3
6
30m
4
gehen
10m
5
5
20m
6
7-
17m
7
6
18m
FA: FA: Jul 2023 | 150m, 7 | |||
| {UIAA} 5 | ★★ Via Linda (rechter Ausstieg) | 35m | |||
| {UIAA} 7- | ★ Via Tre Pilastri
1
4
25m
2
6
30m
3
6+
35m
4
2
25m
5
6-
25m
6
5+
25m
7
7-
30m
'Via Elda' crosses at the last pitch. Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Klaus Oppermann, 1 May 2015 | 200m, 7 | |||
| {UIAA} 6+ A0 | ★★★ Via Lecciomania
1
6-
25m
2
5+
35m
3
6-
30m
4
5
30m
5
5+
25m
6
6-
30m
7
6+ A0
35m
FA: Franz Heiß, Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, Mar 2017 | 210m, 7 | |||
| {UIAA} 7 A0 | ★★ Via Sulle trace di Dario
1
5+
20m
2
6+
35m
3
6-
40m
4
5
20m
5
6
20m
6
6
30m
7
7 A0
30m
8
6+
30m
Crosses 'Via Lecciomania' twice. Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner, Peter Maier & Julia Haupt, Dec 2016 | 230m, 8 | |||
| {UIAA} 7 A0 | ★★ Via L'Amicizia Continua
1
5
25m
2
5+
30m
3
6+
25m
4
5
50m
5
7 A0
20m
6
6+
25m
7
6
15m
8
6
15m
In memory of Dario Cabas who died in 2015. Same third pitch as Via Nicol. Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill, Peter Maier, Julia Haupt & Sandra Schieder, Jan 2018 | 210m, 8 | |||
| 7 | Via Nicol
The route has been equipped from the top and the bolt placements are not optimal. Not recommended route. Set: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2013 | 160m, 5 | |||
| 6a | ★ La Cengia Rossa
1
6a
25m
2
5b
20m
3
6a
45m
4
5c
35m
5
3
15m
6
5b
25m
7
5b
20m
FA: H. Grill, F. Kluckner & F. Heiss, 2012 | 190m, 7 | |||
| 6a+ | ★★ La cengia rossa extension
Nice pitch starting on tufas to the right of the top of La Cengia Rossa. | 25m | |||
| 5c | ★★ Caldo Inverno
1
5c
2
5c
3
4a
4
5c
5
5a
6
4c
7
5c
nice climb on east Parete San Paolo side - avoid during summer morning/midday!!! all spit, some clepsydras FA: D. Cabas, P. Masera, H. Grill, F. Kluckner & K. Oppermann, 2012 | 160m, 7 | |||
| 6a | ★★ Per Luca
1
4c
2
6a
3
5b
4
4b
5
4c
6
5b
7
5c - 6a
Schöne abwechslungsreiche Route. Einstieg links der Galliope. In blau angeschrieben. Zusätzliche Absicherung mit Friends 0,75, 1, 2 gut möglich. Die letzten beiden SL kann man auch zu einer zusammenfassen. FA: 2017 FA: 2017 | 200m, 7 | |||
| {UIAA} 5+ | ★★ Via Calliope
1
4
20m
2
5+
40m
3
5+
30m
4
4+
30m
5
5+
20m
6
4+
50m
a mix of bolts and rock tunnels and a few pegs for protection at moderate distances. bring only quickdraws. the last long pitch can be split by building an anchor at a solid tree in case you don't want to deal with too much rope drag. | 190m, 6 | |||
| {UIAA} 6+ A0 | ★★ Via Adonis (original)
1
6-
2
6-
3
5
4
6+
5
6-
6
6
7
6
8
5
This route has multiple variants. A newer, direct start (first 2 pitches further left) and a newer, direct exit (replacing the 4 last pitches with 2 that continue directly from the ledge instead of going right). Number of pitches and grades are for the original route. Set: Pierangelo Masera, Dario Cabas & Heinz Grill, 2008 | 8 | |||
| {UIAA} 7 | Via Ruggero
1
7-
30m
2
7-
30m
3
5+
30m
4
7
25m
5
2
15m
6
6+
20m
7
5-
35m
8
7-
15m
There is a variant for pitch 1 in 8 to the left. Set: Andreas Salomon & Peter Göpel, 2009 | 200m, 8 | |||
| Via Lanterna
| |||||
| {UIAA} 6+ | ★★ Via Orfeo
1
6-
40m
2
6
30m
3
6
25m
4
6-
35m
5
5
40m
6
5
20m
7
5+
35m
8
4+
25m
9
6+
35m
Some friends recommended. Crosses Via Lanterna at top of pitch 4. Set: Heinz Grill, Sigrid Königseder, Florian Kluckner & Martin Mocek, 2007 | 290m, 9 | |||
| {UIAA} 7 A0 | Via Sette Muri
1
4
2
6+
3
6
4
5
5
6
6
6
7
6+
8
1
9
5+
10
7 A0
11
6+
Set: Heinz Grill, F. Kluckner & A. Kluckner, 2006 | 11 | |||
| {UIAA} 6+ | In Memoria di Ugo Ischia
1
5+
35m
2
6-
20m
3
6+
30m
4
6-
20m
5
6+
35m
6
5
25m
7
6
35m
8
5-
40m
9
5
30m
Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner & Franz Heiss, 2007 | 270m, 9 | |||
| 6c+ | ★ Via Roberto
1
6b
2
6b+
3
6a+
4
6a
5
6c+
6
6c
7
5+
8
6b
6b obl. Set: Guiseppe Mantovani, 2006 | 8 | |||
| 7b A1 | ★★ Die Freiheit die ich meine
1
6b+
25m
2
6b
20m
3
6b+
25m
4
7b A1
25m
5
6a+
15m
6
6b+
40m
7
5a
20m
6b obl. (1 passage in 7b or A1). Set: Hannes Schnitzer, Leo Breitenberger, Markus Holzer & Markus Huber, 2010 | 170m, 7 | |||
| {UIAA} 6 | ★★★ Via Selene
1
5+
32m
2
6-
40m
3
6
35m
4
5+
35m
5
5
25m
6
6-
20m
7
5+
32m
8
5+
28m
Topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/selene-parete-san-paolo-arco/ Set: Heinz Grill, Florian Kluckner, Andrea Kluckner & Sigrid Königseder, 2007 | 250m, 8 | |||
| 6c | ★★★ Sindrome de Makita
1
5c
2
6b+
3
6c
4
5a
5
6a
6
3
7
5b
Set: H. Grill & F. Kluckner, 2007 | 190m, 7 | |||
| {UIAA} 7+ A0 | ★★ Via attraverso il viso
1
6-
30m
2
7-
35m
3
7-
25m
4
7
30m
5
7
40m
6
6
20m
7
7+ A0
30m
8
5+
15m
Set: Werner Mairösl, Hannes Schnitzer, Josef Fischer & Markus Huber, 2008 | 230m, 8 | |||
| 6c+ | ★★ Via Spiderman
1
6c+
2
6a+
3
6b+
4
6a+
5
5b
6
6b+
7
5a
8
6c
Set: H. Schnitzer, S. Fischer, M. Huber & L. Brietenberger, 2009 | 200m, 8 | |||
| 6b | ★★ Via Ape Maia
1
6a
2
5c
3
5c
4
6a
5
6b
6
6a
7
5a
Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2003 | 200m, 7 | |||
| 6b | Giù dalle brande
Leads into Via Concordia. Set: Giuseppe Mantovani, 2004 | 260m, 8 | |||
| Sud Promontorio di Kroz | |||||
| 6c | Break Dance
| 30m | |||
| 6c | Calimba de Luna
| 38m | |||
| 6b | Il brigante Goria
| ||||
| 7a+ | Avatar
| 20m | |||
| 6c | ★★ Without name
| 15m | |||
| 6a+ | Cavoli tuoi
Crosses the route that starts on the right of it. | 17m | |||
| 5c | Senza bom
| 17m | |||
| 5b | ★ No Name
Water holes and friction. Old pegs (red). | 25m | |||
| 5c | ★ Il Primo Specchio
New bolts, but with a long runout in the middle. | 15m | |||
| 6a | ★ Il Secondo Specchio
| 20m | |||
| 6a+ | ★ Il Terzo Specchio
Old slings and enough new bolts. You will be in contact with the trees. | 20m | |||
| 4c | ★★ Bella Marisa
Short warm up in the shades. | 10m | |||
| 6b+ | ★ Grandi Praterie per Manitu
| 25m | |||
| 7a | Dolce Marina
| 22m | |||
| 6b | White Line
| 10m | |||
| 5c | Senza Balle
| 20m | |||
| 7a | Caduta Sassi
| 25m | |||
| 6c | Pioneer
| 30m | |||
| 6c+ | Super Tilt
| 30m | |||
| 5c | Con un Fischio
| 12m | |||
| 6a+ | Le temps ont changés
| 12m | |||
| 6c | ★★ Obelix
1
6b
2
6c
| 37m, 2 | |||
| 6a | Tenax
| 15m | |||
| 6b | La padelle
| 20m | |||
| 8a | Chipped Elephant Baby
The first 8a of the Sarca Valley! Chipped holds. FFA: Rolando Larcher, 1986 | 20m | |||
| 7a | Tenebre
| 38m | |||
| 6c+ | Herpes
Moves left on top. | 35m | |||
| 7b | Herpes tropicale
Direct variant of Herpes. | 35m | |||
| 7a | Monacù
| 30m | |||
| 6c+ | Bip bip
1
6c+
30m
2
6a
20m
| 50m, 2 | |||
| 7c+ | Dracurella
1
7a
25m
2
7c+
20m
| 45m, 2 | |||
| 7b | Tartufon Meraviglios
| 25m | |||
| 7b | Grill Grill
1
6c
25m
2
7b
20m
| 45m, 2 | |||
| 6c | L'om sec...
| 25m | |||
| 6b | Ossa
| 25m | |||
| 7a | 9/7=7
| 25m | |||
| Centrale Swing Area | |||||
| 7b+ | Pipistrello
FA: Heinz Mariacher | ||||
| 7c | Indiana Jones
| 2 | |||
| 7b+ | Super Swing
FA: Heinz Mariacher, 1983 | ||||
| 7b+ | La Gnogna
Shares anchor with Super Swing. | 26m | |||
| 7c | Nisida
| ||||
| 7c | Balle Bollenti
| ||||
| 8a | La Pista
| ||||
| 7b | La Gita
| ||||
| 7c+ | Porca Vacca
| ||||
| 7a | Armando Diaz
| ||||
| 6a | Greppo Greppo
1
6a
20m
2
5c
20m
| 40m, 2 | |||
| 6c | Bicipiti in Vacanza
| 20m | |||
| 6c+ | ★★ Karl Dalle
1
6c+
20m
2
6b
20m
| 40m, 2 | |||
| 6c+ | La Rivincita dei Piedi
| 20m | |||
| 6c | ★★ Unnamed 1
| 20m | |||
| 6b+ | ★★ Sirac En Rut
Same start as Unnamed 1 but connects right into Karl Knopf. | 2 | |||
| 6b+ | Topolino
Shares anchor with first pitch of Sirac en rut. | 20m | |||
| 7a | Karl Knopf
| ||||
| 6c | ★★ Tin Tin
| ||||
| 7a | La Principessa sul Pisello
Extension of Tin Tin. | 40m | |||
| 7a | Sultan of Swing
| 20m | |||
| Centrale | |||||
| 6c A0 | ★★ Neve d'autunno
1
6b
25m
2
5c
30m
3
6a+
40m
4
5b
20m
5
6a
25m
6
5b
25m
7
6a
20m
8
6c A0
15m
9
6a
15m
10
4c
30m
11
6a+ A0
30m
The route 'Giù dalle brande' crosses at the ledge on pitch 6. Changes made in 2017. Set: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2010 | 280m, 11 | |||
| 7 A0 | Per Ela
1
7 A0
2
5+
3
5+
4
7 A0
5
5+
6
6
7
3+
8
5
9
6
Crosses 'Via Concordia' at the top of the 2nd pitch. Starts just right of Swing Area. Set: Dario Cabas & Pierangelo Masera, 2010 | 260m, 9 | |||
| 6a+ | ★★★ Via Concordia
1
6a+
35m
2
5a
30m
3
6a
35m
4
6a
45m
5
6a
25m
6
6a+
25m
7
6a
45m
8
5b
35m
Giù dalle brande with a "new", different start. FFA: Giuseppe Mantovani, Franz Heiss, Heinz Grill & Florian Kluckner, 2008 | 280m, 8 | |||
| 7 A0 | Via Il Perfezionista
1
6+
2
5
3
5+
4
6+
5
7
6
6
7
6
8
6+
9
6+ A0
10
6
11
6
12
6+
Set: Florian Kluckner, Heinz Grill, Sandra Schieder, Klaus Oppermann & Franz Heiss, 2013 | 250m, 12 | |||
| {UIAA} 7 A0 | ★★ Via Parete nera
1
6+
2
6+
3
7
4
7-
5
6-
6
4
7
6+
8
6-
9
5+
6+ obl. Set: Heinz Grill & Franz Heiss, 2010 | 9 | |||
| 7 A0 | Via La Tartaruga
1
5+
2
6
3
6+ A0
4
7
5
5+
6
4
7
6
8
6
9
5+
Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss, Florian Kluckner, Klaus Oppermann & Barbara Holzer, 2012 | 9 | |||
| {UIAA} 7- A0 | ★★ Via Lo Scansafatiche
1
6
45m
2
4
30m
3
3+
40m
4
7-
25m
5
6
20m
6
A0
55m
7
6
45m
8
4+
35m
Set: Heinz Grill, Franz Heiss, Barbara Holzer & Klaus Oppermann, 2012 | 300m, 8 | |||
| 6 A1 | ★★ Via Aria di Primavera
1
5
40m
2
4+
20m
3
A1
20m
4
A0
20m
5
2
30m
6
6
40m
7
5
30m
6a/b obl. Set: Dario Cabas, Pierangelo Masera & Demis Arlanch, 2011 | 200m, 7 | |||
| Nord Diamante del Ba.Ro. | |||||
| Unknown 1
| |||||
| 7a | Not Only Apple
Same start as Parassiti d'Oltralpe but branches out left. | 30m | |||
| 6c | Parassiti d'Oltralpe
| 30m | |||
| 7b+ | Copacabana
| 33m, 2 | |||
| ? | Pedro
| 30m | |||
| 8a+ | L'etic Del Ba. Ro.
| 30m | |||
| 7c | Tibbia Silinziosa
Up to the first anchor. | 20m | |||
| 7c+ | Spigolo della Tibia Silenziosa
Extension of Tibia Silenziosa. | 35m | |||