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Summary
Description
Afternoon sun
West
A 3-km cliff borders the western shore of the peninsula. It runs with only a single interruption at Portella de Vacche (dirt road leading to sea) along the coast. Most routes range from 15 to 30 m in length with plenty of easier and moderate routes; most sectors are well developed. In many cases (but not all!) the grading seems to be a tad soft. The cliff is almost exclusively exposed to the west; shady routes in for the afternoon can only be found in some grottes or corners.
Access issues inherited from San Vito lo Capo
To access some sectors you need to cross fences used for cattle - be careful to not damage the fences
Approach
The beach is narrow and blocky in the northern half, thus all sectors north of "Fakiro's beach" are best accessed from north, all others from the south. Access is generally short.
for crags in the north:
Still on asphalt, ideal for rental cars (38.182917, 12.725818)
Closer to the rocks, but on dirt road (38.181620, 12.721803)
Even closer to the rocks, but the road is quite bad and rocky in some places (38.175634, 12.716612)
for crags in the middle (e.g Bunker): (38.157921, 12.731418)
for crags in the south: El Bahira camping or along the road towards it. E.g. (38.145101, 12.735661)
Where to stay
There are several guesthouses and a camping at San Vito. The camping "El Bahira" is located within a stone's throw of some of the sectors.
Ethic inherited from San Vito lo Capo
Well established
As of 2020 it's forbidden to bolt new routes as re-bolting is still the main focus.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Karsten Oelze & Harald Röker
Date: 2023
ISBN: 9783938680483
A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing at San Vito Lo Capo, near Trapani in northern Sicily, covering over 1,200 sport routes, including many multi-pitch routes up to 400m long.
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Author(s): Manuel Senettin and Thomas Hofer
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9788898495047
This guidebook describes the sport climbing around the seaside resort of San Vito lo Capo in northwest Sicily, covering 25 crags and nearly 800 single pitch sport routes across a wide range of grades (F3a to F9a).
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Author(s): Daimon Beail
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781873341681
A comprehensive guidebook covering the rock climbing areas around San Vito Lo Capo, and Palermo detailing nearly 1,500 routes. The crags covered are Scogliera di Salinella, Macari, Castelluzzo, and Custonaci at San Vito, and Monte Pellegrino and Monte Gallo around Palermo.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Nearby Icons
| 5a | ★★★ Neptun | ||
| 5b | ★★★ Erik G. | ||
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| 5c | ★★ Ave | ||
| 6a | ★★★ Giant Slalom | ||
| 6a+ | ★★ Natalie | ||
| 6b | ★★★ Melchiorre | ||
| 6b+ | ★★★ Jammin' In The Name Of The Lord | ||
| 6c+ | ★★★ Clean break | ||
| 7a | ★★ The Riddle | ||
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| 7b+ | ★★★ Pipeline | ||
| 7c | ★★★ L'uomo delle caverne | ||
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| 8a | ★★★ Pochaonta's loveline |
Photos Browse all photos
Richard C on ★ Tractors in Ukranian 5c - EE1F7F0F-9Tractors in Ukarainian - Start of Route243-419B-9319-FB47A0F34BB6.jpeg
Philip on ★★ Seven lives 8a/a+ - 91E3FB6C-6C90-4845-BB3D-2B6DC89FA02F.jpeg