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Summary

Long west-facing cliff with hundreds of single pitch sport climbs of all grades

Description

A 3-km cliff borders the western shore of the peninsula. It runs with only a single interruption at Portella de Vacche (dirt road leading to sea) along the coast. Most routes range from 15 to 30 m in length with plenty of easier and moderate routes; most sectors are well developed. In many cases (but not all!) the grading seems to be a tad soft. The cliff is almost exclusively exposed to the west; shady routes in for the afternoon can only be found in some grottes or corners.

Access issues inherited from San Vito lo Capo

To access some sectors you need to cross fences used for cattle - be careful to not damage the fences

Approach

The beach is narrow and blocky in the northern half, thus all sectors north of "Fakiro's beach" are best accessed from north, all others from the south. Access is generally short.

for crags in the north:

Still on asphalt, ideal for rental cars (38.182917, 12.725818)

Closer to the rocks, but on dirt road (38.181620, 12.721803)

Even closer to the rocks, but the road is quite bad and rocky in some places (38.175634, 12.716612)

for crags in the middle (e.g Bunker): (38.157921, 12.731418)

for crags in the south: El Bahira camping or along the road towards it. E.g. (38.145101, 12.735661)

Where to stay

There are several guesthouses and a camping at San Vito. The camping "El Bahira" is located within a stone's throw of some of the sectors.

Ethic inherited from San Vito lo Capo

As of 2020 it's forbidden to bolt new routes as re-bolting is still the main focus.

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