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Arakure

  • Grade context: US
1
YDS

Summary

A restricted crag in the Chichibu area.

Description

Most of the routes are hard, no easy route (just few easy route for warm up) available.

Access issues

This crag is not officially open. It is a limited admission area because there is some reason. It’s like commune. Now, only a limited number of climbers, about 20, have access to the area and the members have also strengthened their ties with local residents by continuing to help with the annual festival at a local shrine. It’s one of the great case to keep on good relationships with local residents and climbers I’ve seen. If a non-member climber want to access there, they need to be accompanied by one of the members.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

History

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Arakure” has been climbed for a long time, the history started 30 years (1990's) ago.

Routes

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Grade Route

Description by Keita Kurakami: The first crux is V9 big dyno, and then you can take a short rest but it not good rest. Then you climb 27 crimpy moves 5.14c section. I felt it’s not 5.14d, but I can’t give 5.15a grade so my few experience for sport route. So I graded it 5.14d / 5.15a finally.

Set by Akira (a.k.a Sanchez)

FFA: Keita Kurakami, Mar 2020

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