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Summary
One of the best and most famous Japanese Limestone crag. Amazing quality rock, steep long and challenging routes, short and easy approach. More than 200 routes from 5.10 to 5.15 and some multi-pitch.
Description
Since 2021 Ogano climbing association is doing a huge work of rebolting, cleaning, and developing new routes and areas in Futagoyama. The new areas information is published in the Rock & Snow magazines. You can also support their work by joining the association Ogano Association Website which also gives you access to the new area topo member-only web page.
They decided to change the grading system to French grades (explained on the association website: Futagoyama New Grading System)
If you're used to Japanese grades, this new grading system is quite soft so you can expect to climb quite a few grades harder than your max.
Access issues inherited from Japan
Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.
Approach
Access only possible by car. From Route 299 follow the small road up the hill. The trail goes from the parking (side of the road) which has spots for about 10 cars (there is another parking space 5 min before the trail for about 5 cars). After five minutes, at the first intersection hike down the hill and the trail splits for either the East Peak or West Peak (Center Hill Route).
Ethic inherited from Japan
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
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| 5.12a | ★★★ Modern Love | ||
| 5.12c | ★★★ Oishi-Yo | ||
| 5.12d | ★★★ Ninkyo-do |
Photos Browse all photos
Némo on ★★★ North Mountain 5.12a - North Mountain
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Némo on ★★ Lucky Cat 5.11b - Lucky Cat - Futagoyama
Tue 18 Apr
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